Front Wheel Bearings on vintage Fuji S10S
11-01-09, 05:23 PM
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Front Wheel Bearings on vintage Fuji S10S
Am currently overhauling a Fuji S10S built in 1978 and am perplexed about the front wheel bearings. There do not appear to be cone nuts to adjust for play. There are two nuts (lock) on each side; quick release lever; and a thick washer right next to the hub which appears to be a completely sealed unit. Problem is there is a bit too much play and I would like to get at the inside and re grease the bearings. Wheel spins okay but seems as though there should be some method of accessing the bearings?
If what I am looking at are bearing seals how do they come out?
If what I am looking at are bearing seals how do they come out?
11-01-09, 07:02 PM
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can you post a few pics?
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11-01-09, 07:10 PM
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I just got through rebuilding a 1980 S12S. Perhaps they are the same. The cone did not have flats on it but the axle was grooved and there was a washer between the locknut and the cone that had a tab that fit into the groove in the axle thereby keeping the cone from moving when you tightened the locknut. To regrease, you hold both locknuts with wrenches and turn until one comes loose. You can then remove the locknut and cone by hand. The little dust cover on the hub pries off with a small screwdriver (careful not to bend it) remove the balls, turn it over, pull the axle out and remove the dust cover on the other side to take its balls out too. Clean, grease and reassemble.
11-01-09, 11:05 PM
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^ yes.
I had an S10S (bought it new--probably about 1978; it was a creamy-whitish-tannish color), and this rings a bell with what I remember.
(In 1980 I sold it to my friend, and bought a Windsor Carrera Sport, which I still have.)
I had an S10S (bought it new--probably about 1978; it was a creamy-whitish-tannish color), and this rings a bell with what I remember.
(In 1980 I sold it to my friend, and bought a Windsor Carrera Sport, which I still have.)
Last edited by mcgreivey; 11-01-09 at 11:12 PM.
11-02-09, 08:21 AM
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Pictures of front wheel bearing hub
Here are the pictures of my Fuji S10S front wheel bearing hub and associated nuts and washer(s).
As you can see there are not flats or keys. How am I supposed to access the bearings and/or adjust the cones?
As you can see there are not flats or keys. How am I supposed to access the bearings and/or adjust the cones?
11-02-09, 11:01 AM
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I bet those are not the original wheels. I don't recall that anyone was using cartridge bearings back then.
11-02-09, 11:14 AM
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https://projekto-b.blogspot.com/2008/...-bearings.html
11-02-09, 01:25 PM
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Those are stock, I have a few sets on our touring bikes. They always have a little play in them, nothing you can do. The Phil Wood hubs were the same back then.
11-02-09, 03:58 PM
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Interesting. My wife's S12S is a couple of years newer and has cone and cup bearings. Maybe Fuji thought the cartridge ones were a bad idea and abandoned them
11-02-09, 04:16 PM
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front wheel bearings
My Fuji was built in February, 1978. It does seem to be a nicely designed bike apart from the bearings. Perhaps I will stop by my LBS with the wheel and see what they say. Did take it out for an 11 mile spin the other day and the bike rolled along pleasantly. Just would like to do a thorough maintenance properly in case I decide to sell it.
The link supplied above by njkayaker is excellent. Very nice tutorial.
The link supplied above by njkayaker is excellent. Very nice tutorial.
Last edited by Sculptor7; 11-02-09 at 04:30 PM.
11-02-09, 07:41 PM
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The seals are removeable with a pick. Be careful so as to not screw them up.
The bearings can be taken out with this tool. https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...em_id=UB-TA340
The number should be on the seal.. They are most likely 6000 2 RS.
The bearings can be taken out with this tool. https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...em_id=UB-TA340
The number should be on the seal.. They are most likely 6000 2 RS.
11-04-09, 08:23 AM
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Problem solved, I think.
Took the wheel over the LBS and had a discussion with one of the friendly people there. His opinion (without taking it apart) was that the race had become oval through wear and thus accounted for the play. Seemed reasonable to me. Bought a set of lock nut wrenches which I lacked and decided to just reassemble the wheel and live with it. After tightening the lock nuts with a reasonable degree of force the play was no longer there and the wheel turns nicely without any gravelly sounds. Good enough for me.
