Cantilever Brake question
#1
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just going for a ride...
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From: Hillsboro, Oregon
Bikes: LeMond Sarthe, OCR A1, OCR 2, Cypress DX
Cantilever Brake question
I understand what makes Front and rear caliper brakes different. Whats the difference between front and rear Cantilever Brakes?
#4
nice idea, poor execution
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: West Newton, MA
Some Shimano brakes come with a different link wire for front or rear, but the brakes are the same. Some just come with the pads installed properly for that orientation.
I saw a bike set up with Avid cantilevers that had different arm lengths for the front+rear, but one of the brakes could just have been older than the other. New Avid brakes are sold as only one part that is "front/rear compatible".
I saw a bike set up with Avid cantilevers that had different arm lengths for the front+rear, but one of the brakes could just have been older than the other. New Avid brakes are sold as only one part that is "front/rear compatible".
#6
Surf Bum
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From: Pacifica, CA
Bikes: Lapierre Pulsium 500 FdJ, Ritchey breakaway cyclocross, vintage trek mtb.
It's common to run wide profile brakes on the front but if you put the same ones on the back, you might hit them with your foot so you use ones that don't stick out so much.
#7
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From: Grid Reference, SK
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Shimano used to specify front/rear just to ensure the brake pads were int he right orientation at the time of purchase, but if you swapped the pads left to right the rear are identical to the front.
THere also used to be Scott 'Self Energizing' brakes that were (as I recall) likely to grab uncontrollably and throw you over your bars if used on the front, but these have been off the market for a decade, I think.
THere also used to be Scott 'Self Energizing' brakes that were (as I recall) likely to grab uncontrollably and throw you over your bars if used on the front, but these have been off the market for a decade, I think.
#8
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just going for a ride...
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From: Hillsboro, Oregon
Bikes: LeMond Sarthe, OCR A1, OCR 2, Cypress DX
Here's Universal selling the front brake for $9 more then the rear brake. ????
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...50&category=34
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...50&category=34
#10
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From: Grid Reference, SK
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Odd... I don't doubt that Shimano still ships them in boxes labelled "Front" and "Rear," but the retailer must have gotten a better deal on a batch of just "Fronts" or something. I just looked at the associated tech docs on the Shimano website, and there is no mention of front or rear specific, except ensuring the brake pads are in the correct orientation.
https://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830677287.pdf
https://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830677287.pdf
#11
cab horn

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From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Odd... I don't doubt that Shimano still ships them in boxes labelled "Front" and "Rear," but the retailer must have gotten a better deal on a batch of just "Fronts" or something. I just looked at the associated tech docs on the Shimano website, and there is no mention of front or rear specific, except ensuring the brake pads are in the correct orientation.
https://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830677287.pdf
https://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830677287.pdf
#12
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From: Grid Reference, SK
Bikes: I never learned to ride a bike. It is my deepest shame.
Repairs, and even more noticable would be an assembly run where multiple bike with similar setups are to be built over the course of a day - the last thing you need is fiddling with tiny washers 4X for every bike - the process is not so complicated but the time it takes to go back and correct a mistake is the real kicker.
#13
Newbie

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I'm setting up an old pair of SHIMANO ALTUS BR-CT91 cantilever brakes, and I've learned that the Shimano- branded link wire (like a pre-measured straddle cable) come in A & B sizes, which are front/rear specific: "A" Link wire is for Front brakes;
"B" Link wire is for Rear Brakes. I'm still trying to figure out whether the actual brake arms are different, and, if so, how to tell which ones are which.
Lots of info at "Boring McBoring's guide to shimano cantilever brakes (including all the McVersions...)" [I'm not allowed to post URLs or photos yet...]
"B" Link wire is for Rear Brakes. I'm still trying to figure out whether the actual brake arms are different, and, if so, how to tell which ones are which.
Lots of info at "Boring McBoring's guide to shimano cantilever brakes (including all the McVersions...)" [I'm not allowed to post URLs or photos yet...]
#14
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
15 year old...
one reason why Shimano chose different link wires (straddle wires by a different name and set up) was to deal with the different cable casing hanger/stop to canti dimension compared to the usual front. Often rear brakes (especially on smaller or ladies frames) had little space between the stop and the canti arm ends. So a long link wire would place the junction "button/yoke) too close to the stop and cause contact before full pad against rim was achieved. Front set ups usually had much more room between the (usually high located) casing hanger and the cantis. This greater room also allowed for the best link wire length for best leverage (and not a length compromised by clearance issues). Andy
one reason why Shimano chose different link wires (straddle wires by a different name and set up) was to deal with the different cable casing hanger/stop to canti dimension compared to the usual front. Often rear brakes (especially on smaller or ladies frames) had little space between the stop and the canti arm ends. So a long link wire would place the junction "button/yoke) too close to the stop and cause contact before full pad against rim was achieved. Front set ups usually had much more room between the (usually high located) casing hanger and the cantis. This greater room also allowed for the best link wire length for best leverage (and not a length compromised by clearance issues). Andy
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AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#16
They have different internals for front and rear, because the helical actuators need to turn in opposite directions. The front type was withdrawn because it was too easy for unwary riders to launch themselves, but they were fine in experienced hands; ISTR the rear version was available until fairly recently.
#17
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Here's Universal selling the front brake for $9 more then the rear brake. ????
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...50&category=34
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...50&category=34
#18
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Is 15 years a new record?
People tend to forget that brakes are often better than they need to be.
At various times, Shimano and others have gone out of their way to de-tube or limit front brakes for the US market, out of fear of lawsuits over endos.
Discounting legal concerns, I'd arrange brakes so the front were stronger, however CYA thinking would indicate the opposite.
People tend to forget that brakes are often better than they need to be.
At various times, Shimano and others have gone out of their way to de-tube or limit front brakes for the US market, out of fear of lawsuits over endos.
Discounting legal concerns, I'd arrange brakes so the front were stronger, however CYA thinking would indicate the opposite.
Last edited by FBinNY; 04-15-24 at 03:17 PM.
#19
I'm setting up an old pair of SHIMANO ALTUS BR-CT91 cantilever brakes, and I've learned that the Shimano- branded link wire (like a pre-measured straddle cable) come in A & B sizes, which are front/rear specific: "A" Link wire is for Front brakes;
"B" Link wire is for Rear Brakes.
"B" Link wire is for Rear Brakes.






