I've got a stock Ritchey threadless headset on my commuter. The bike is new this year, with ~300 miles on it by now. After I bought it from the LBS, I noticed the headset was loose, so I adjusted it and it has been fine since then. This week, I noticed it was loose again (braking a bit jumpy and the characteristic "knock" when front brake is pulled and bike is shifted forward and back). I tried adjusting again but I absolutely cannot seem to get it tight--including when I way over-tighten it. What I mean is, no matter how tightly I cinch it down, I can't get rid of these symptoms. I've done this adjustment a good deal on other bikes, so I'm operating under the assumption that my technical skills are also not the problem.

I've checked and the star nut isn't stripped, front hub adjustment is good.

What's going on here? Hardware failure? Low quality components? User error? Inaccurate understanding of how to check for proper headset tension?

Thanks all

You shouldn't have over tightened it.

1) Check that the star nut (assuming you have one) hasn't pulled to the top of the steerer
2) Reassemble the entire stack, adjust headset with "normal" topcap bolt torque
3) Cinch stem bolts down
4) Remove topcap and visually inspect to see if it's bottoming out against the steerer
5) If the above is true, estimate the amount of spacer you need so that it clears, typically 3mm/5mm or more.

It sounds like something isn't right inside anymore. It's time to remove your fork so you can check all the parts. It may be that the original parts had not totally seated for some oddball reason and on top of that perhaps the steering tube is a shade too long so the cap is bottoming on the top of the steer tube. Start by taking off the cap and check that. The stem should be an 1/8 inch or so higher than the end of the steer tube. The shop may not have used the correct spacers for some oddball reason. They and you may have got away with it at first but now that whatever settled in now it's too close and the cap is bottoming. It's either this or one of the bearings has failed in some manner or a cup has cracked, or a host of other possible things.

So either take it back to the shop if it's under warranty or have a go at looking things over yourself if it's not under warranty or you just want to know what's going on.

That'd be it.

Hi again all,

Thanks for the suggestions. Just got around to fiddling with this. Star nut is in place, 4 or 5 mm of space between top of steerer tube and top of stem. No obvious problems with top cup.

What's next in the differential diagnosis? Any ideas?

The star nut should be around 10mm+. You've checked all the things i've mentioned in my previous post?

Are you loosening stem bolts enough? If they are too tight, tightenting top cap bolt will not address play is headset. Otherwise, could still be problem with threads on topcap bolt or star nut; Suggest replacing top cap bolt and maybe have LBS install new star nut.

Checked it all. And, I don't see why it needs to be >1cm. As long as the slack it takes up when tightened leaves space between topcap and steerer. Regardless, the 4-5mm number is with the stem bolts still tight, so I cannot fathom spacing is a problem.

And DOS, I checked the threads on the topcap bolt which look fine. I'm assuming the star nut as well, also because it threads in nicely and stays that way. You sure this could be the issue? And yes, I completely slacked the stem bolts so it moved freely around the steerer.

With different topcaps, especially campy the starnut must be much lower than 4-5mm for it not to bottom out. Proper starnut installation is always that figure. Campy says 20mm in their manual.

Is your headset missing any pieces? In particular the split, cone ring?

If everything checks out with your headset, see if anything is loose with your front brake. A loose mounting or pivot bolt can have similar feeling symptoms to a loose headset if you shift the bike back and forth with the front brake engaged.

Chombi
84 Peugeot PSV
85(?) Vitus Plus carbone 7

proper amount of spacers??