I'm going to put together my first bike from scratch this weekend. I'm pretty experienced with a wrench, have replaced everything on my bikes at least once, but I've never built a bike up starting with a bare frame before.

So let's hear your "things I wish I'd known before I tried this the first time" list...

Be careful when you thread your chain through the rear derailleur.

Have plenty of beer in the fridge.

Do you also have your home-made headset press?

Do an inventory of your tools to make sure you have everything you need.

Make sure you use the right tool for the right job.

If you don't have headset tools, it's more cost effective to have the LBS do the job. You'll probably not need those tools, again, any time soon.

You're probably okay in this department but:

have the frame -in hand- before you accumulate the rest of the parts. Nothing like realizing your bb, seatpost, etc. won't fit because of a typo or the like.

One big mistake I've read about is cutting a steering tube too short. That's usually the result of measuring all the items in the stack and adding wrong or forgetting to include the spacers or stem length. I assemble the bike as I intend to ride it, then scribe a mark at the top of the stem, cut slightly above that mark and then place a 5mm spacer on top of the stem. If there's any doubt about the bar height, leave additional length and plan on recutting later. It's not hard to do, even with the fork still in the frame.

Yes, I'm planning the have the LBS install the headset. (I was tempted to get a headset press for the occasion, but I really can't see myself using it very often.) How much do you think they will charge me? Will they cut the steerer tube when I do that, or should I do it myself? As DaveSSS points out, it's much safer to do this at the end of the process...

Install headset and cut fork prob $20-$30.

Drill a big hole at the lowest point of your bottom bracket for moisture/water drainage (except maybe if you have a CF frame) Make sure all threads, even the smallest nut and bolt, are perfectly clean and oiled/greased. Grease all cables, der and brake, before installing.

Unless you are matching a current bike and you know exactly how high you want the bars, cut the steerer at least 20 mm too long and put spacers above the extra steerer length to do the headset adjustment.

Ride it that way for a few time and decide if the bars are too low, too high or just right. Adjust as needed (without cutting the steerer) and ride a few more times. After, and only after, you are certain about the bar height, then make the final steerer cut.

As DaveSSS recommended make the steerer cut about 2 mm above the top of the stem and add a 5 mm spacer above the stem to get the needed headset adjustment gap. That assures the stem is fully supported by the steerer tube.

If the steer tube is carbon fiber do not use more than 5 nm (44 inch lbs.) of torque on the stem. 5 nm is plenty.

Al

-Don't rush to put on grips/bar tape. Putting it together and taking it apart and switching out parts are pretty likely.

-Don't be in a hurry. If you come up against something that does not seem right, step away. Our heads are usually smart enough to figure stuff out if you give it a chance.

-Got a friend with any experience? Always helps to have someone you can lean on. For that matter, use BF as a proxy if needed. We can talk you down off the cliff.

-Start bolts carefully. Everyone strips threads sometimes, and it really sucks when its on your new bike.


Bikes are relatively simple things, and so don't be afraid to try to think your way through to solutions. And don't be shy about asking for advice.

jim

^^^ Good advice about not rushing.

I'll only spend 3 hours (including beer) building up a friend's bike but will spend 2 days building my own personal bike.

Take your time, enjoy it!

make sure you have at least one adjuster on each cable and at least one release on each brake.

You're missing out on the best part of building a frame are you planning on cutting the fork yourself to correct length or having that done also? make sure you measure correctly.
Your more or less just assembling the parts that should go alright, have fun in any case and take your time and do it right from the start, cutting cables and casings would be something to take a little care in doing so it not only looks good but make sure cables won’t get cut from sharp edges of the casing.

Headset and bottom bracket must match the frame. No getting around this. Do a "dry run" with the cable and housing routing before making any final cuts. Make sure you did your homework when it comes to bottom bracket axle length and chainline before any derailleur setup takes place. Don't assume seat tube diameter or stem clamp diameters-measure them. If it's a new frame or freshly painted frame, make sure there's not paint build up in the dropouts or the end of the steer tube and bottom bracket shell that may cause fit problems. If possible, check the alignment of the dropouts and derailleur hanger. This could possibly save you time trying to diagnose a shifting problem. If it's a road bike, don't wrap the handlebars till you've had a chance to get in a couple rides to get the hood placement dialed in.

+1000000

2. Also, make sure everything threading into the frame threads in nice and smooth by hand - NO TOOLS - and if there is binding get the threads chased by the LBS when you go to have your headset installed.

3. Be sure about cable length before you cut. There is a narrow range of length that is "correct" all others are too short or too long and will hinder performance. Look it up on Park Tool of Sheldon Brown before starting if need be.

I would have the headtube "faced" and the BB "faced" and "chased". if you bikeshop is installing the headset they should face it as part of the installation. it never hurts to ask them though. I forgot to do so at a local shop that I though was competant at such a job. the headset is tight one way and loose the other. so it will have to be redone.

OH I forgot. when I have a bare clean frame in the stand I always try and use a good car wax on it and in ever little space I can get a Qtip into

[QUOTE=jgedwa;10211111-Start bolts carefully.[/QUOTE]

That's a good one!

The larger diameter, the more difficult it is to get started correctly. If your bottom bracket cups won't thread in easily using just your fingers, you've got something wrong.

Facing the bottom bracket shell and headtube shouldn't be needed if the frame is by a good maker or a good custom builder. It will have been done by the builder. Do check for paint buildup on the faces but barring that, you should be good to go. If your frame has an "integrated" headset, you can't have it faceed it in any event.

1. A friend told me, "Never start a plumbing project unless the hardware store is open." Transmogrify that into a biking statement. Of course, you can be a lot more patient with a bike project than you can with a typical plumbing problem.
2. Feel free to ignore a significant percentage of the advice you'll get here (including this post.)

That's why you buy 10 45-degree elbows although you only need one for the project. Return the rest to Home Depot when project completed. Of course, this only applies to plumbing...

My #1 tip: If there's a bike co-op / collective near you, this can be a great resource, as they've usually got the tools, and will help you do the things you need to do for your bike.

You live in NYC, and it looks like you've got one - https://times-up.org/index.php?page=bike-co-op/ .

If you have a steel frame, use frame-saver on the inside to prevent water damage/rust.
If you have a titanium frame, use anti-seize grease on every single piece of metal that touches the frame (even water bottle cage bolts, cable stops, etc.). Titanium is known to seize with other metals over time.

-Use grease with every bolt/thread/seatpost/etc.
-Cut cable housing with proper tools. Cutting it properly with cause a lot less friction(especially at the cable housing ends), thus extending the life and usability of the cables. Grind the ends of the housing flat.
-Good idea to face and chase bb cups and headtube, even if it is a good manufacturer.