Grease question...
#1
blah blah blah
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,520
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Grease question...
I did a search and read the 4 page grease thread but am still unsure about this...
I am currently too scared/lazy to mess with overhauling anything with bearings, but I do hear that grease should go on any metal-to-metal threaded thingys. So if I want to put grease on a metal seatpost in a metal frame, grease on pedal threads, grease on bottle cage/shoe cleat bolts, etcetera... what kind of grease is a good choice? Or the standard reply of marine and/or polyurea grease will work for both packing bearings as well as threaded bolts too? Thank you!
I am currently too scared/lazy to mess with overhauling anything with bearings, but I do hear that grease should go on any metal-to-metal threaded thingys. So if I want to put grease on a metal seatpost in a metal frame, grease on pedal threads, grease on bottle cage/shoe cleat bolts, etcetera... what kind of grease is a good choice? Or the standard reply of marine and/or polyurea grease will work for both packing bearings as well as threaded bolts too? Thank you!

#2
GATC
I use this stuff on everything but the chain. Hubs, seatposts, pedals, bottle cages...
#3
Senior Member
Pretty much anything will be fine for what you are looking to do. Even white lithium grease will do the job. But why not pick up a tub of marine bearing grease and be ready for the day you decide to get serious about doing your own bike maintenance?
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 745
Bikes: '82 Giante super challange, 70 Gitane Tour de France, GT Gutterball
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#7
Senior Member
Yes, tubs will be cheaper. I just got a tub of automotive bearing grease for $11, in Australia, where things are usually much more expensive than in the USA.
#10
50/50 Road/eBike Commuter
I suppose it's not a good idea to use anti-sieze for bearings because the metal bits in it might cause damage to the bearings, races, etc.. Is this correct?
#11
Senior Member
$4 for a tub of marine grease in California.
#12
Senior Member
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY state
Posts: 1,311
Bikes: See Signature...
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I use Park bike grease. It works. Sure it cost more than generic marine grease, but even still I got a 1lb tub for $11 or something, I was already ordering other stuff so it didn't cost more in shipping. That $11 is going to cover me for many MANY years down the road. Worth it, IMO.
I use it for anything around the house I need grease for, too. Which isn't much, but once in a while if I need to use it, its there!
I use it for anything around the house I need grease for, too. Which isn't much, but once in a while if I need to use it, its there!
#14
Rustbelt Rider
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Canton, OH
Posts: 9,123
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 258 Post(s)
Liked 356 Times
in
171 Posts
FWIW I use mobile 1 synthetic grease. It was recommended by some other forum members and seems pretty nice for a low price. My one gripe is that the red color can easily stain fingers or shirts.
I am sure any high quality grease will do the trick, regardless of brand.
I am sure any high quality grease will do the trick, regardless of brand.
__________________
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|......GO.BROWNS........| ||'|";, ___.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ] -
"(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|......GO.BROWNS........| ||'|";, ___.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ] -
"(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
#15
Banned
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 2,078
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
So it may not, but there may still be some undesirable effect or other. I just don't know.
#16
You Know!? For Kids!
Here is a tub for $2.74, but shipping is $8. Point being, you can get a tub of wheel bearing grease for under $5 at WalMart or Target or Ace or your local hardware store I would imagine. Then you have grease for the wheels on the lawn mower, all the hubs on all the bikes in the house, that sqeaky door hinge, whatever. I have a tub of bearing grease and a tube of white lithium that have lasted for years, and I have repacked the major bearings on all three of my bikes and all three of my kids bikes and some friends bikes.
__________________
Are you a registered member? Why not? Click here to register. It's free and only takes 27 seconds! Help out the forums, abide by our community guidelines.
Are you a registered member? Why not? Click here to register. It's free and only takes 27 seconds! Help out the forums, abide by our community guidelines.
#17
Senior Member
Go to the auto parts or hardware store and but a tub or grease gun tube of grease. It is cheap and more than adequate for our use. Bike specific lube of any kind is just hype.
https://yarchive.net/bike/grease.html
https://yarchive.net/bike/grease.html
#18
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I can say this much about lithium grease. I took apart the WHOLE freewheel ASSEMBLY, even where they have those tiny bearings (Shimano - Raleigh Super Record 10 speed ). I used the lithium grease about 10-15 yrs ago. Recently I went to ride it and when I went to pedal, the freewheel spun (just like I was pedaling backward, but I was pedaling forward). After taking apart the freewheel I found that the two teeth (I don't know the proper term) that provide the resistance were glued down from the lithium grease. These two teeth normally spring up but were very goooey and stuck.
#19
You Know!? For Kids!
10-15 years? Do not blame this on white lithium. You let any grease sit that long and it will gum up I would imagine.
__________________
Are you a registered member? Why not? Click here to register. It's free and only takes 27 seconds! Help out the forums, abide by our community guidelines.
Are you a registered member? Why not? Click here to register. It's free and only takes 27 seconds! Help out the forums, abide by our community guidelines.
#20
Raving Madman
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 25
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I've been doing mechanical work for about two decades, and have used all sorts of different greases - my personal favorite type right now is marine wheel bearing grease. Waterproof, extremely low friction, it's just the right stuff for the job.
My currently preferred brand is Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty:
https://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...id=14&loc=show
A one pound tub will run you about three bucks at most hardware stores. I find it superior in the long term compared to Pennzoil red. (this stuff is green) as it doesn't gum up over a two or three year period.
Though @JohnMemphis, jsharr hit it on the head - don't blame ANY grease type lubricant if it gums up after A DECADE OR MORE!!!
Good rule of thumb is, and I don't care WHAT lubricant you use, 3 years is when you SHOULD inspect/clean/replace, and 5 years is a must... Though grease is less prone to problems if you just let it sit there unused as opposed to oils which will slowly pool away from where you need lubrication. If you're actually USING the item - oil monthly or even weekly, grease at LEAST every five years.
Hell, five years of mechanical wear ALONE should require bearing and gear replacements if it's a daily rider - much less a decade or more.
My currently preferred brand is Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty:
https://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...id=14&loc=show
A one pound tub will run you about three bucks at most hardware stores. I find it superior in the long term compared to Pennzoil red. (this stuff is green) as it doesn't gum up over a two or three year period.
Though @JohnMemphis, jsharr hit it on the head - don't blame ANY grease type lubricant if it gums up after A DECADE OR MORE!!!
Good rule of thumb is, and I don't care WHAT lubricant you use, 3 years is when you SHOULD inspect/clean/replace, and 5 years is a must... Though grease is less prone to problems if you just let it sit there unused as opposed to oils which will slowly pool away from where you need lubrication. If you're actually USING the item - oil monthly or even weekly, grease at LEAST every five years.
Hell, five years of mechanical wear ALONE should require bearing and gear replacements if it's a daily rider - much less a decade or more.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 238
Bikes: Pinarello Road, Surly LHT, Dolan Track, Fuji Supreme, Guru Ti Tri, Bamboo
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I use Phil Wood waterproof grease in a pricey little tube so it doesn't get contaminated, like a big ol' tub. I like the smell too.
#22
Senior Member
I don't know. The metal used in antiseize is softer stuff; the whole point is to have solid particles with a lower shear strength than the threads, but which can't flow away like a liquid lubricant due to the tension on the joint.
So it may not, but there may still be some undesirable effect or other. I just don't know.
So it may not, but there may still be some undesirable effect or other. I just don't know.
Since wheel bearing grease is actually designed for wheel bearings, and almost everyone agrees (based on many many collective years of experience) that it's also good enough for most bicycle anti-seize purposes, this is by far the preferable compromise, IMHO.
#23
Banned
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 2,078
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
I can't cite any scientific evidence on this either, but the idea of using antiseize for bearings just makes warning bells go off like crazy in my head.
Since wheel bearing grease is designed for wheel bearings, and almost everyone agrees (based on many many collective years of experience) that it's also good enough for most bicycle anti-seize purposes, this is by far the preferable compromise, IMHO.
Since wheel bearing grease is designed for wheel bearings, and almost everyone agrees (based on many many collective years of experience) that it's also good enough for most bicycle anti-seize purposes, this is by far the preferable compromise, IMHO.
#24
cowboy, steel horse, etc
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Valley of the Sun.
Posts: 41,623
Bikes: everywhere
Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10525 Post(s)
Liked 5,560 Times
in
2,888 Posts
I can say this much about lithium grease. I took apart the WHOLE freewheel ASSEMBLY, even where they have those tiny bearings (Shimano - Raleigh Super Record 10 speed ). I used the lithium grease about 10-15 yrs ago. Recently I went to ride it and when I went to pedal, the freewheel spun (just like I was pedaling backward, but I was pedaling forward). After taking apart the freewheel I found that the two teeth (I don't know the proper term) that provide the resistance were glued down from the lithium grease. These two teeth normally spring up but were very goooey and stuck.
Light oil is the recommended lube for the freewheel.
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 66
Bikes: an old Marin
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
any grease whateva the grade or brand is better than none. i use chemtool products. they are industrial but work well