CR18 or A719 rim with 28c tire
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CR18 or A719 rim with 28c tire
So I've got a Specialized Allez road bike that I have been using for touring and need some new wheels. I am restricted to 130mm rear spacing so will be using 36 hole tiagra hubs, and need a good sturdy 36 hole rim. I am debating the Sun CR18 (afforable) or the Mavic A719 (not so much). Both have wider spacing, CR18 is 22.5mm an the A719 is 24mm.
Because of the bike's frame, I can't run a tire wider than 28c. Will I have any problems running a 28c tire (specifically the Continental Gatorskin) with a 22.5mm or 24mm rim? Sheldon Brown basically says it should be okay, but does anybody have any personal experience?
Because of the bike's frame, I can't run a tire wider than 28c. Will I have any problems running a 28c tire (specifically the Continental Gatorskin) with a 22.5mm or 24mm rim? Sheldon Brown basically says it should be okay, but does anybody have any personal experience?
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I currently have a 23mm tire on my CR-18 rim. It looks a bit strange since the tire doesn't really extend past the rim surface, but it works fine. Previously had a 35mm tire on the same rim and that looked better and worked equally well. (Can't fit my front fender on with the 35mm tire, so that's why I switched to the narrower one for our rainy season.)
Since you'll never be going wider than 28mm (not 'c') I'd go with the CR18 - you may want to use narrower tires at some point.
Since you'll never be going wider than 28mm (not 'c') I'd go with the CR18 - you may want to use narrower tires at some point.
#4
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If the A719 is a bit expensive, then why not try an A319? I haven't noticed a difference between the two in terms of strength.
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I have a set of 28 mm Gatorskins on Ritchey Girder rims with an inner width of 24 mm (I think) and at pressure the tires measure a full 28 mm. I think they would be a very good fit for you.
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I have 700x28 tires on CR18 rims and they work just fine. Pain in the butt to change a flat, but no problems with the width.
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#10
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I built up a wheel with the CR18 for a 230 pound gorilla friend. He runs a 28 and it works fine.
I'm with operator, you need a tourer.
I'm with operator, you need a tourer.
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1) Why can't my bike handle a fully loaded rear rack?
2) Why can't you put a front rack on this bike?
3) What do you mean it doesn't accept larger tyres?
4) Why am I kicking my panniers on the rack? Wtf?
5) Why is the gearing too high?
6) Why is my front radial wheel breaking spokes??
etc. etc.
Oh well. Maybe the OP knows what he's doing.
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This is the typical kind of thing that customers return and say:
1) Why can't my bike handle a fully loaded rear rack?
2) Why can't you put a front rack on this bike?
3) What do you mean it doesn't accept larger tyres?
4) Why am I kicking my panniers on the rack? Wtf?
5) Why is the gearing too high?
6) Why is my front radial wheel breaking spokes??
etc. etc.
Oh well. Maybe the OP knows what he's doing.
1) Why can't my bike handle a fully loaded rear rack?
2) Why can't you put a front rack on this bike?
3) What do you mean it doesn't accept larger tyres?
4) Why am I kicking my panniers on the rack? Wtf?
5) Why is the gearing too high?
6) Why is my front radial wheel breaking spokes??
etc. etc.
Oh well. Maybe the OP knows what he's doing.
1.) Burley Nomad trailer
2.) Burley Nomad trailer
3.) 700x28 is large enough
4.) Burley Nomad trailer
5.) Mountain cassette
6.) New wheels described in this post. 3x, touring rims, 36h, double butted spokes
I know its not ideal. But it works just fine :-)
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Why the nomad? A bob works just as well, better in some circumstances. Not to debate trailer merits the point is, it can be done, but it's always going to be a bit of a workaround. Unless you know that a tourified race bike is what you want, I'd suggest using something different. But then again, if a tourified race bike is what you want, and you have the experience to know, then go for it.
I am a mechanic and salesperson in a very nice shop. I would never suggest to someone to buy a road bike if they plan on touring - there is a reason why touring bikes are made. However there is no reason to dissuade someone who has an old road bike and wants to try touring but doesn't want to buy a new bike (for whatever reason). It can be done, and has been done safely and comfortably many times.
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Strong wheels
So, touring on a road bike eh?
If you're not going to put much weight on the front wheel, you might not need a stronger front wheel. Of course, trailer or panniers, the rear wheel is critical. The Mavic A319 and A719 are very strong touring rims, but the CR-18 is strong too - and as you said, quite affordable as it has been in production for so long, in such large quantities. No wonder the CR-18 is so popular - strong and cheap.
Of course, wheel build quality is more important than which touring rim you use. A well-built wheel with high quality spokes, equally and properly tensioned on each side, stress-relieved and detwisted, will be stronger than a poor machine-built wheel, regardless of the rim.
My touring rear wheel is an A319/DT/Deore 36 spoke wheel, and it works great with a 28mm Marathon Plus.
If you're not going to put much weight on the front wheel, you might not need a stronger front wheel. Of course, trailer or panniers, the rear wheel is critical. The Mavic A319 and A719 are very strong touring rims, but the CR-18 is strong too - and as you said, quite affordable as it has been in production for so long, in such large quantities. No wonder the CR-18 is so popular - strong and cheap.
Of course, wheel build quality is more important than which touring rim you use. A well-built wheel with high quality spokes, equally and properly tensioned on each side, stress-relieved and detwisted, will be stronger than a poor machine-built wheel, regardless of the rim.
My touring rear wheel is an A319/DT/Deore 36 spoke wheel, and it works great with a 28mm Marathon Plus.
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So, touring on a road bike eh?
If you're not going to put much weight on the front wheel, you might not need a stronger front wheel. Of course, trailer or panniers, the rear wheel is critical. The Mavic A319 and A719 are very strong touring rims, but the CR-18 is strong too - and as you said, quite affordable as it has been in production for so long, in such large quantities. No wonder the CR-18 is so popular - strong and cheap.
Of course, wheel build quality is more important than which touring rim you use. A well-built wheel with high quality spokes, equally and properly tensioned on each side, stress-relieved and detwisted, will be stronger than a poor machine-built wheel, regardless of the rim.
My touring rear wheel is an A319/DT/Deore 36 spoke wheel, and it works great with a 28mm Marathon Plus.
If you're not going to put much weight on the front wheel, you might not need a stronger front wheel. Of course, trailer or panniers, the rear wheel is critical. The Mavic A319 and A719 are very strong touring rims, but the CR-18 is strong too - and as you said, quite affordable as it has been in production for so long, in such large quantities. No wonder the CR-18 is so popular - strong and cheap.
Of course, wheel build quality is more important than which touring rim you use. A well-built wheel with high quality spokes, equally and properly tensioned on each side, stress-relieved and detwisted, will be stronger than a poor machine-built wheel, regardless of the rim.
My touring rear wheel is an A319/DT/Deore 36 spoke wheel, and it works great with a 28mm Marathon Plus.
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Retension and rebalance and stress relieve. The "QBP" wheelbuilder - what a laugh. I nearly rofl'ed when I read that **** on the front page. I had a set of wheels ordered right next to me from QBP that were *obviously* machine built, or of extremely crappy human built quality.
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