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Need help fixing shift cable on trainer

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Old 03-15-10 | 08:33 PM
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Need help fixing shift cable on trainer

Hey everybody, I have a question about cables. Is it possible to cut the end off a cable, then resolder a stop on the end and have it hold against shifting pressure? Reason I ask is I have a mag trainer that has a shift cable with split housing. I want to replace the housing, but I can't get the cable through the hollow screw because the stop is too big in diameter. Here is a picture. Thanks for any help!

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Old 03-15-10 | 08:56 PM
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I'm confused. Why not replace the cable? Or pull it from the other direction?
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Old 03-15-10 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by bikinfool
I'm confused. Why not replace the cable? Or pull it from the other direction?
It has a stop on both ends, so it's not really removable. Kind of like the housing and cable sets you can buy, one end has to be cut to pull the cable through. Unfortunately in this case I need both ends.
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Old 03-15-10 | 10:00 PM
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Before die cast cable heads, cables used brass heads which were dipped in solder. If you can find something to use as a head thread the cable through, then fray the end open a bit. The hole in the fitting should be stepped or sort of funnel shaped with the working end of the cable coming in the narrow end, and the wider end to allow you to fray the wire open like a budding flower, and pull it back into the pocket. Solder well making sure the solder runs into and fills your floret. It's the floret with solder within it to keep from closing up that gives the job strength, and keeps it from pulling apart under load. If you do a decent job opening the wire the end will be stronger than the wire itself.

I've made cables using things like spoke nipples, or other hardware and never had a failure.
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Old 03-15-10 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
Before die cast cable heads, cables used brass heads which were dipped in solder. If you can find something to use as a head thread the cable through, then fray the end open a bit. The hole in the fitting should be stepped or sort of funnel shaped with the working end of the cable coming in the narrow end, and the wider end to allow you to fray the wire open like a budding flower, and pull it back into the pocket. Solder well making sure the solder runs into and fills your floret. It's the floret with solder within it to keep from closing up that gives the job strength, and keeps it from pulling apart under load. If you do a decent job opening the wire the end will be stronger than the wire itself.

I've made cables using things like spoke nipples, or other hardware and never had a failure.
Thanks for the great info. The solder I have is Rosin Core for electrical use, 97% tin with a bit of copper and 2% Rosin. Will this work or should I use something different?

Thanks again...
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Old 03-15-10 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ColoRyan
Thanks for the great info. The solder I have is Rosin Core for electrical use, 97% tin with a bit of copper and 2% Rosin. Will this work or should I use something different?

Thanks again...
Strength wise it's OK because you're not depending on it's strength, but it might be a problem with stainless steel wire so I'd test first. If it doesn't work ask for solder and flux appropriate for the material of both the wire and head. ie. SS and brass.
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Old 03-16-10 | 08:11 PM
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