Need help fixing shift cable on trainer
#1
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Need help fixing shift cable on trainer
Hey everybody, I have a question about cables. Is it possible to cut the end off a cable, then resolder a stop on the end and have it hold against shifting pressure? Reason I ask is I have a mag trainer that has a shift cable with split housing. I want to replace the housing, but I can't get the cable through the hollow screw because the stop is too big in diameter. Here is a picture. Thanks for any help!
#3
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It has a stop on both ends, so it's not really removable. Kind of like the housing and cable sets you can buy, one end has to be cut to pull the cable through. Unfortunately in this case I need both ends.
#4
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Before die cast cable heads, cables used brass heads which were dipped in solder. If you can find something to use as a head thread the cable through, then fray the end open a bit. The hole in the fitting should be stepped or sort of funnel shaped with the working end of the cable coming in the narrow end, and the wider end to allow you to fray the wire open like a budding flower, and pull it back into the pocket. Solder well making sure the solder runs into and fills your floret. It's the floret with solder within it to keep from closing up that gives the job strength, and keeps it from pulling apart under load. If you do a decent job opening the wire the end will be stronger than the wire itself.
I've made cables using things like spoke nipples, or other hardware and never had a failure.
I've made cables using things like spoke nipples, or other hardware and never had a failure.
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FB
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 03-15-10 at 10:06 PM.
#5
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Before die cast cable heads, cables used brass heads which were dipped in solder. If you can find something to use as a head thread the cable through, then fray the end open a bit. The hole in the fitting should be stepped or sort of funnel shaped with the working end of the cable coming in the narrow end, and the wider end to allow you to fray the wire open like a budding flower, and pull it back into the pocket. Solder well making sure the solder runs into and fills your floret. It's the floret with solder within it to keep from closing up that gives the job strength, and keeps it from pulling apart under load. If you do a decent job opening the wire the end will be stronger than the wire itself.
I've made cables using things like spoke nipples, or other hardware and never had a failure.
I've made cables using things like spoke nipples, or other hardware and never had a failure.
Thanks again...
#6
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Strength wise it's OK because you're not depending on it's strength, but it might be a problem with stainless steel wire so I'd test first. If it doesn't work ask for solder and flux appropriate for the material of both the wire and head. ie. SS and brass.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#7
SE Wis

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