Hub Body Threads Stripped
08-23-04, 09:13 AM
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Hub Body Threads Stripped
Hey fellas,
I recently bought a bike (ebay) and the rear wheel was locking up. So i took the rear wheel off and saw that the cones were not tight. So i fixed that...as i was fixing it i noticed that the cassette was loose..had a slight up-down, side-side wobble. I emailed the previous owner and asked about this. He said that the cassette should have a slight wobble for shifting purposes. I reinstalled the wheel. Couple weeks later i noticed that the rear wheel had a bad slap in it. I took it off again and seen that the cones were indeed tight but the cassette was really wobbley...i took off the cogs and the freehub body was very loose..so i figured i would just tighten it and disregard what the previous owner had said. I tried tightening the fixing bolt with the 10mm hex key. No GO!! the hub is stripped. Being a student with a need to commute i had to be mobile. I took out the 1mm "slotted" spacer from behind the freehub body...this gave enoght thread to tighten the freehub..but now the large cog rubs the spokes..as a quick fix i took the 2nd smallest cog and put in on first then the rest of the cassette...this gave clearance. No more wobble in the wheel.
Now i dont have a 9 speed anymore
..i was wondering...shimano makes a 33mm and a 36mm fixing bolt for the freehub..i dont know which one mine uses....they (shimano) says that the slotted spacer uses the 33mm bolt but if i could use the 36mm bolt ($2.00) it would allow me to place the slotted spacer back in and still allow enough thread to tighten the freehub...plus it would save me from buying an entire new rear hub and rebuilding the rear wheel. Does anyone know if this can be done ...anyother suggestions? Currently it is a XTM570 hub with a SRAM 9 speed cassette...I see nashbar has the same hub for $29US...how much should it cost to rebuild a wheel? I am new to the sport so please be patient.
I recently bought a bike (ebay) and the rear wheel was locking up. So i took the rear wheel off and saw that the cones were not tight. So i fixed that...as i was fixing it i noticed that the cassette was loose..had a slight up-down, side-side wobble. I emailed the previous owner and asked about this. He said that the cassette should have a slight wobble for shifting purposes. I reinstalled the wheel. Couple weeks later i noticed that the rear wheel had a bad slap in it. I took it off again and seen that the cones were indeed tight but the cassette was really wobbley...i took off the cogs and the freehub body was very loose..so i figured i would just tighten it and disregard what the previous owner had said. I tried tightening the fixing bolt with the 10mm hex key. No GO!! the hub is stripped. Being a student with a need to commute i had to be mobile. I took out the 1mm "slotted" spacer from behind the freehub body...this gave enoght thread to tighten the freehub..but now the large cog rubs the spokes..as a quick fix i took the 2nd smallest cog and put in on first then the rest of the cassette...this gave clearance. No more wobble in the wheel.
Now i dont have a 9 speed anymore
..i was wondering...shimano makes a 33mm and a 36mm fixing bolt for the freehub..i dont know which one mine uses....they (shimano) says that the slotted spacer uses the 33mm bolt but if i could use the 36mm bolt ($2.00) it would allow me to place the slotted spacer back in and still allow enough thread to tighten the freehub...plus it would save me from buying an entire new rear hub and rebuilding the rear wheel. Does anyone know if this can be done ...anyother suggestions? Currently it is a XTM570 hub with a SRAM 9 speed cassette...I see nashbar has the same hub for $29US...how much should it cost to rebuild a wheel? I am new to the sport so please be patient.
08-23-04, 11:21 AM
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You need a new bike
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You can certainly get a new hub and have the whell rebuilt. Since you don't have any wheelbuilding experience you'll need to get a bike shop to do it for you. Probably about $40. If you get the same model hub you'll be able to reuse the spokes and save you a few bucks. Be sure the new hub is made for the number of spokes. Sometimes the same model is drilled for different configurations.
Sorry you got ripped off. Sounds like the guy who sold the wheel knew it was bad and fed you a line to get you off his back. I would try to get the guy to take it back.
Sorry you got ripped off. Sounds like the guy who sold the wheel knew it was bad and fed you a line to get you off his back. I would try to get the guy to take it back.
08-23-04, 11:39 AM
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thanks supcom
if i lace the wheel myself and get the bike shop to tension and true and stuff....how much would it cost? rough estimate
if i lace the wheel myself and get the bike shop to tension and true and stuff....how much would it cost? rough estimate
