Help replacing 1" Fork
#1
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 429
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From: North Texas
Bikes: Kestrel Talon; Giant NRS Air; Litespeed Tuscany; Burley Rivazza; Cerverlo RS; BMC SLX01; Litespeed C1r, Merckx Corsa 01, Schwinn Traveller, Brompton M6L
Help replacing 1" Fork
Got a used 99 Litespeed Ti frame and fork. Current setup is threaded, 43mm rake and 140mm steerer tube. Since I'm replacing the fork I learned there are 2 ways to go.
1. Get the Nashbar 1" carbon fork. The shortest steerer tube listed is 160mm. I think this will be the cheapest and easiest way to do it. Can I cut it to be 140mm?
2. Replace the threaded headset with a threadless setup and install a 1" full carbon fork. More $$$ but will have a more modern and lighter setup. If I go this route what type of headset will I need?
I have built a bike from the frame up so I am confident I can do this. I just need some help in getting the correct parts.
1. Get the Nashbar 1" carbon fork. The shortest steerer tube listed is 160mm. I think this will be the cheapest and easiest way to do it. Can I cut it to be 140mm?
2. Replace the threaded headset with a threadless setup and install a 1" full carbon fork. More $$$ but will have a more modern and lighter setup. If I go this route what type of headset will I need?
I have built a bike from the frame up so I am confident I can do this. I just need some help in getting the correct parts.
#2
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
There's usually enough thread on new threaded forks to cut off 20mm, but the best option is to email the seller and ask the height of the lowest thread, or the length of the thread measured from the top, and compare it to the height of your threaded headset cup.
If the fork is still in the bike, measure from the outside to the lip of the cup. It's isn't perfect, but hopefully you won't be right on the line, so the rough measure will tell you what you need. If it's borderline, you'll have to remove the fork to be sure.
If you opt to go threadless, you'll need both a headset and stem. Any standard 1" threadless headset will work, you can't use any integrated or "hidden" headsets.
Good luck whichever way you go.
If the fork is still in the bike, measure from the outside to the lip of the cup. It's isn't perfect, but hopefully you won't be right on the line, so the rough measure will tell you what you need. If it's borderline, you'll have to remove the fork to be sure.
If you opt to go threadless, you'll need both a headset and stem. Any standard 1" threadless headset will work, you can't use any integrated or "hidden" headsets.
Good luck whichever way you go.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#4
If your old cups are good you can just move it over to the new fork also as mentioned above will need to be cut the new fork down to correct length and if you use another headset you need to make sure you cut for it, as it may change the length if different.
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It may not be fancy but it gets me were I need to go.
https://www.jtgraphics.net/cyclist_bicycles.htm
#5
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Yes, I should have been clearer and said "Campy standard or 30.2mm" His 99 Litespeed will not be the comparatively rare in the USA 30.0mm JIS standard.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 429
Likes: 2
From: North Texas
Bikes: Kestrel Talon; Giant NRS Air; Litespeed Tuscany; Burley Rivazza; Cerverlo RS; BMC SLX01; Litespeed C1r, Merckx Corsa 01, Schwinn Traveller, Brompton M6L
From the top edge to the lip is about 25mm. The fork description in Nashbar says the threads go down 50mm. If I cut off 20mm there should be 30mm thread left which I guess will be adequate.
If I decide to go the threadless route I will measure the inner diameter of the headtube to make sure I get the right size.
Thanks guys. You have been very helpful.
If I decide to go the threadless route I will measure the inner diameter of the headtube to make sure I get the right size.
Thanks guys. You have been very helpful.
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