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Front Derailer Question
We have a 2010 GT Avalanche 3.0 mountain bike.
When I'm shifting my front derailer gear from the smallest gear to the middle gear on the front, the chain is not "catching." I've slowed my pedaling so the chain has a chance to "settle" on to the gears, but the links keep "missing." This happens the most over bumpy terrain, but it has happened on the road also. It doesn't matter which gear the rear derailer is in. I've made sure to follow the owner manual and as recommended, not use the first 2 rear gears on either "end," depending on which front gear I am in with the front derailer, as to keep from cross-chaining. Is this something that I'm doing incorrectly? When I switch gears, I am slowing my pedaling, and only switching the chain on one derailer at a time. |
Originally Posted by RatedZ
(Post 10653071)
We have a 2010 GT Avalanche 3.0 mountain bike.
When I'm shifting my front derailer gear from the smallest gear to the middle gear on the front, the chain is not "catching." I've slowed my pedaling so the chain has a chance to "settle" on to the gears, but the links keep "missing." This happens the most over bumpy terrain, but it has happened on the road also. It doesn't matter which gear the rear derailer is in. I've made sure to follow the owner manual and as recommended, not use the first 2 rear gears on either "end," depending on which front gear I am in with the front derailer, as to keep from cross-chaining. Is this something that I'm doing incorrectly? When I switch gears, I am slowing my pedaling, and only switching the chain on one derailer at a time. Don in Austin |
Originally Posted by Don in Austin
(Post 10653358)
If your cable tension is adjusted properly you should look at how close the derailleur is to the chainrings. The closer you can get it short of rubbing the more positive the shifts. Makes a substantial difference.
Don in Austin Whatever the case, I will heed your advice and check everything out. :thumb: |
When changing the at the front it's not a question of "slowing" your pedal rate but of reducing the pressure on the pedals at the moment of changing. Changing at the rear is always easier as this is done on the lower run of the chain which is not taut. At the front the change is done on the top run of the chain which is under considerable pressure, and it's important that you reduce this by easing off the pedals while effecting the change.
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Originally Posted by onbike 1939
(Post 10653964)
When changing the at the front it's not a question of "slowing" your pedal rate but of reducing the pressure on the pedals at the moment of changing. Changing at the rear is always easier as this is done on the lower run of the chain which is not taut. At the front the change is done on the top run of the chain which is under considerable pressure, and it's important that you reduce this by easing off the pedals while effecting the change.
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