Front Derailer Question
#1
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Front Derailer Question
We have a 2010 GT Avalanche 3.0 mountain bike.
When I'm shifting my front derailer gear from the smallest gear to the middle gear on the front, the chain is not "catching." I've slowed my pedaling so the chain has a chance to "settle" on to the gears, but the links keep "missing." This happens the most over bumpy terrain, but it has happened on the road also. It doesn't matter which gear the rear derailer is in.
I've made sure to follow the owner manual and as recommended, not use the first 2 rear gears on either "end," depending on which front gear I am in with the front derailer, as to keep from cross-chaining.
Is this something that I'm doing incorrectly? When I switch gears, I am slowing my pedaling, and only switching the chain on one derailer at a time.
When I'm shifting my front derailer gear from the smallest gear to the middle gear on the front, the chain is not "catching." I've slowed my pedaling so the chain has a chance to "settle" on to the gears, but the links keep "missing." This happens the most over bumpy terrain, but it has happened on the road also. It doesn't matter which gear the rear derailer is in.
I've made sure to follow the owner manual and as recommended, not use the first 2 rear gears on either "end," depending on which front gear I am in with the front derailer, as to keep from cross-chaining.
Is this something that I'm doing incorrectly? When I switch gears, I am slowing my pedaling, and only switching the chain on one derailer at a time.
#2
Don from Austin Texas
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,211
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Texas
Bikes: Schwinn S25 "department store crap" FS MTB, home-made CF 26" hybrid, CF road bike with straight bar, various wierd frankenbikes
We have a 2010 GT Avalanche 3.0 mountain bike.
When I'm shifting my front derailer gear from the smallest gear to the middle gear on the front, the chain is not "catching." I've slowed my pedaling so the chain has a chance to "settle" on to the gears, but the links keep "missing." This happens the most over bumpy terrain, but it has happened on the road also. It doesn't matter which gear the rear derailer is in.
I've made sure to follow the owner manual and as recommended, not use the first 2 rear gears on either "end," depending on which front gear I am in with the front derailer, as to keep from cross-chaining.
Is this something that I'm doing incorrectly? When I switch gears, I am slowing my pedaling, and only switching the chain on one derailer at a time.
When I'm shifting my front derailer gear from the smallest gear to the middle gear on the front, the chain is not "catching." I've slowed my pedaling so the chain has a chance to "settle" on to the gears, but the links keep "missing." This happens the most over bumpy terrain, but it has happened on the road also. It doesn't matter which gear the rear derailer is in.
I've made sure to follow the owner manual and as recommended, not use the first 2 rear gears on either "end," depending on which front gear I am in with the front derailer, as to keep from cross-chaining.
Is this something that I'm doing incorrectly? When I switch gears, I am slowing my pedaling, and only switching the chain on one derailer at a time.
Don in Austin
#3
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Whatever the case, I will heed your advice and check everything out.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,053
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From: Fife Scotland
Bikes: Airnimal Chameleon; Ellis Briggs; Moulton TSR27 Moulton Esprit
When changing the at the front it's not a question of "slowing" your pedal rate but of reducing the pressure on the pedals at the moment of changing. Changing at the rear is always easier as this is done on the lower run of the chain which is not taut. At the front the change is done on the top run of the chain which is under considerable pressure, and it's important that you reduce this by easing off the pedals while effecting the change.
#5
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When changing the at the front it's not a question of "slowing" your pedal rate but of reducing the pressure on the pedals at the moment of changing. Changing at the rear is always easier as this is done on the lower run of the chain which is not taut. At the front the change is done on the top run of the chain which is under considerable pressure, and it's important that you reduce this by easing off the pedals while effecting the change.
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M.arie
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