Newb w question about fixie and bike
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Newb w question about fixie and bike
So, just getting back into cycling since i moved downtown where i live and plan on riding allot. I had a fixed gear some years ago and would love to go back to that. Funds are not too abundant but I have picked up a bike for next to nothing. Schwinn sprint, seems to be maybe mid 80's with paddle shifters up by the neck. Id like to turn it into a fixie if at all possible. Can anybody tell me if this is possible and what is entailed, im really good mechanically so its not an issue to do it myself.
Also, if anybody has more info about this bike it would be a great help as I know nothing about it other than it seems pretty heavy. Thank you.
Also, if anybody has more info about this bike it would be a great help as I know nothing about it other than it seems pretty heavy. Thank you.
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There's a dedicated fixed gear forum here, but they'll probably tell you to buy a new bike from Bikes Direct.
If you want this to be as cheap as possible, get a new rear wheel that has a hub with threading for a fixed cog and lock ring. Pick the chain ring that gives you 42mm chain line as that will match the wheel you get, remove the derailleurs and shorten the chain, if its in OK condition. I recommend you get some form of foot retention, even if you keep the brakes.
There are some things you should check with any old bike. Service all the bearings, wheels, BB and headset, check the condition of the brake cables and pads, renew as necessary, check spoke tension and wheel true and check tire condition.
If you want this to be as cheap as possible, get a new rear wheel that has a hub with threading for a fixed cog and lock ring. Pick the chain ring that gives you 42mm chain line as that will match the wheel you get, remove the derailleurs and shorten the chain, if its in OK condition. I recommend you get some form of foot retention, even if you keep the brakes.
There are some things you should check with any old bike. Service all the bearings, wheels, BB and headset, check the condition of the brake cables and pads, renew as necessary, check spoke tension and wheel true and check tire condition.
#4
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Degrease the freewheel or freehub and fill it with epoxy. Then fit it with only one cog and a stack of the spacers to set it into place. PRESTO! Instant fixie. You may need to take it apart partially to accomplish this.
No, I'm not kidding. I did this to a rusty old freehub and tried the fixie thing. But too many years of coasting and riding other bikes with coasting had spoiled me and rendered me untrainable.
But I LOVE my single speed.
No, I'm not kidding. I did this to a rusty old freehub and tried the fixie thing. But too many years of coasting and riding other bikes with coasting had spoiled me and rendered me untrainable.
But I LOVE my single speed.
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Degrease the freewheel or freehub and fill it with epoxy. Then fit it with only one cog and a stack of the spacers to set it into place. PRESTO! Instant fixie. You may need to take it apart partially to accomplish this.
No, I'm not kidding. I did this to a rusty old freehub and tried the fixie thing. But too many years of coasting and riding other bikes with coasting had spoiled me and rendered me untrainable.
But I LOVE my single speed.
No, I'm not kidding. I did this to a rusty old freehub and tried the fixie thing. But too many years of coasting and riding other bikes with coasting had spoiled me and rendered me untrainable.
But I LOVE my single speed.
#6
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When the whole inside of the freehub is locked with a complete fill of epoxy in a properley degreased hub you could skid it until the cows come home with no fear of the epoxy shearing loose.
But keep in mind that I did this to a freeHUB which is bolted in place over a spline connection. I didn't think about it being a freewheel until reading wanlogan's post. A solid locked FREEWHEEL would easily spin off the threads from braking force. So I have to amend my suggestion to say ONLY USE A FREEHUB WHEEL with this simple epoxy fill method.
I still support the idea of brakes though. At least use a front. Skidding is a very slow way to stop when traffic and your face are involved.
To do this mod correctly I did the following steps;
-made up a key to let me remove the wheel bearing cup from the freehub. It's left hand threaded so turn it the correct way to loosen.
-catch the bearings as they fall out by taking it apart in a tray.
-degrease the body, core and ball bearings really well so there's no sign of oil or grease.
-use a good epoxy such as JBWeld or other high grade slow cure formula.
-Assemble the freehub other than the wheel bearing cup and seal the inner side with tape to keep the epoxy from flowing out.
-use a hair dryer to warm the freehub and the epoxy. This will thin the epoxy while warm and ensure a full fill with no airbubbles.
-At the last stage when the epoxy is filling the freehub screw in the wheel bearing cup and wipe away any squeezeout so it doesn't contaminate the cup.
-You don't need to use ALL the ball bearings but use most of them on both sides as the balls seated in the cups and cones center the core to the body.
-After it cures for a good 48 hours you can install it and it'll be as good as if it were welded.
But keep in mind that I did this to a freeHUB which is bolted in place over a spline connection. I didn't think about it being a freewheel until reading wanlogan's post. A solid locked FREEWHEEL would easily spin off the threads from braking force. So I have to amend my suggestion to say ONLY USE A FREEHUB WHEEL with this simple epoxy fill method.
I still support the idea of brakes though. At least use a front. Skidding is a very slow way to stop when traffic and your face are involved.
To do this mod correctly I did the following steps;
-made up a key to let me remove the wheel bearing cup from the freehub. It's left hand threaded so turn it the correct way to loosen.
-catch the bearings as they fall out by taking it apart in a tray.
-degrease the body, core and ball bearings really well so there's no sign of oil or grease.
-use a good epoxy such as JBWeld or other high grade slow cure formula.
-Assemble the freehub other than the wheel bearing cup and seal the inner side with tape to keep the epoxy from flowing out.
-use a hair dryer to warm the freehub and the epoxy. This will thin the epoxy while warm and ensure a full fill with no airbubbles.
-At the last stage when the epoxy is filling the freehub screw in the wheel bearing cup and wipe away any squeezeout so it doesn't contaminate the cup.
-You don't need to use ALL the ball bearings but use most of them on both sides as the balls seated in the cups and cones center the core to the body.
-After it cures for a good 48 hours you can install it and it'll be as good as if it were welded.
Last edited by BCRider; 05-09-10 at 10:47 AM.
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Thank you very much for the advice, it is a great help, now i just need the rain to stop so i can get started. Not sure how i feel about the epoxy, welding is a very good option as I can weld. I fully intend on having a front brake. I dont know if I feel comfortable putting all my faith in epoxy.
#8
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Bikes: Mercier Kilo WT 2009, Fuji Sunfire 1.0 2009, Schwinn Traveler 1988, Cannondale SR 500 1988, Giant Boulder MTB 1989, Trek 800 1997, Schwinn Speedster 1968, Schwinn Collegiate 1974, Schwinn Varsity 1962, Raleigh Three Speed 1971, and 3 cruisers.
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The cash you spent on the bike and now the parts for conversion, bikes directs would probably be the ticket ! You could have got a full chromoly frame and fork fixie between $300-$400 !!
#9
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Did you not see the OP's comment about not having abundant funds?
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#10
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Bikes: Mercier Kilo WT 2009, Fuji Sunfire 1.0 2009, Schwinn Traveler 1988, Cannondale SR 500 1988, Giant Boulder MTB 1989, Trek 800 1997, Schwinn Speedster 1968, Schwinn Collegiate 1974, Schwinn Varsity 1962, Raleigh Three Speed 1971, and 3 cruisers.
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#11
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If you've got the welder access then by all means that is going to be a better way to go. Keep in mind though that the core and shell are already hardened and heat treated. Keep the weld spots controlled and try to not let the heat ruin the heat treatment on the cassete splines far enough out that it affects the part where you'll be spacing your single cog to sit.
#12
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Move out to Oregon, the grass seed capital of the world. When I go for rides in the Willamette Valley, the grass pollen blows across the road in drifts, for Pete's sake. Claritin is my friend.
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