stem replacement
#1
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stem replacement
i need to replace my old quil stem because i lost the long screw that holds it in place.
is it easy to measure my stem size so i can find a new replacement? my current stem is real old so i cant find any identical ones. ill update what it is when i get home
whats your guys views on quil stem to threadless converters?
is it easy to measure my stem size so i can find a new replacement? my current stem is real old so i cant find any identical ones. ill update what it is when i get home
whats your guys views on quil stem to threadless converters?
#2
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Joined: Mar 2008
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Length and reach can be measured any old how. Angle is a bit more tricky, but visual comparison should be enough to get you a working replacement.
Unless you're aiming for an all-out vintage restoration, identical isn't important. With a bit of luck you might even find one with a removable faceplate, which is ever so much easier to work with than the old wrap-around clamps.
1) they work just fine
2) in today's market they offer a wider variety of stems to choose from
3) They do look a bit more kludgy than both the pure threaded and the pure threadless. Slightly heavier too.
#3
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Joined: Apr 2010
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The most critical measurement is the diameter of the stem, both where it goes into the steerer tube of the fork, and where it wraps around the handle bar. Sometimes the sizes are engraved/printed on the stem and bar, making it dead easy. If they aren't I strongly recommend using a vernier caliper. For this, the fractions will be important.
Length and reach can be measured any old how. Angle is a bit more tricky, but visual comparison should be enough to get you a working replacement.
Unless you're aiming for an all-out vintage restoration, identical isn't important. With a bit of luck you might even find one with a removable faceplate, which is ever so much easier to work with than the old wrap-around clamps.
1) they work just fine
2) in today's market they offer a wider variety of stems to choose from
3) They do look a bit more kludgy than both the pure threaded and the pure threadless. Slightly heavier too.
Length and reach can be measured any old how. Angle is a bit more tricky, but visual comparison should be enough to get you a working replacement.
Unless you're aiming for an all-out vintage restoration, identical isn't important. With a bit of luck you might even find one with a removable faceplate, which is ever so much easier to work with than the old wrap-around clamps.
1) they work just fine
2) in today's market they offer a wider variety of stems to choose from
3) They do look a bit more kludgy than both the pure threaded and the pure threadless. Slightly heavier too.
#4
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Joined: Sep 2009
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Bikes: Masi, Giant TCR, Eisentraut (retired), Jamis Aurora Elite, Zullo, Cannondale, 84 & 93 Stumpjumpers, Waterford, Tern D8, Bianchi, Gunner Roadie, Serotta, Serotta Duette, was gifted a Diamond Back
Why don't you go to the LBS and see if they have a spare bolt that they can sell you?
#6
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,697
Likes: 2,039
From: Up
Bikes: Masi, Giant TCR, Eisentraut (retired), Jamis Aurora Elite, Zullo, Cannondale, 84 & 93 Stumpjumpers, Waterford, Tern D8, Bianchi, Gunner Roadie, Serotta, Serotta Duette, was gifted a Diamond Back
I would try the oldest bike shop in town, community bike shop (these tend to have more old junk parts) or maybe call harris cyclery
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/opc.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/opc.html
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