Spring tension centering adjustment screw on V brakes
07-24-10 | 02:40 PM
#1
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Spring tension centering adjustment screw on V brakes
Are you supposed to have to release the spring on a Tektro V brake before turning the centering adjustment screw?
On the front brake the screw won't turn unless I release the spring. On the rear brake I can turn the screw without releasing the spring.
LBS #1 says yes, you have to release the spring first, "otherwise you will break the brake." I didn't find that fact mentioned anywhere in my research on this. LBS #2 says no, you should be able to turn the screw without releasing the spring.
Who's right?
On the front brake the screw won't turn unless I release the spring. On the rear brake I can turn the screw without releasing the spring.
LBS #1 says yes, you have to release the spring first, "otherwise you will break the brake." I didn't find that fact mentioned anywhere in my research on this. LBS #2 says no, you should be able to turn the screw without releasing the spring.
Who's right?
07-24-10 | 02:52 PM
#2
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
It shouldn't be necessary, but it'll always be easier to turn the screw when there's no load.
In your case, if it'll turn fairly easily while attached do it that way, but if you feel resistance, free the cable and release the brake to take the spring load off the screw. Also try to center by loosening the closer side before raising tension on the farther side.
One other thing to consider, especially on rear brakes on smaller frames. Sometimes the section of housing running from the frame to the noodle is stiff enough to push or pull on the arm. Try to adjust this loop's length to be as neutral as possible before using the tension screws for the final adjustment.
In your case, if it'll turn fairly easily while attached do it that way, but if you feel resistance, free the cable and release the brake to take the spring load off the screw. Also try to center by loosening the closer side before raising tension on the farther side.
One other thing to consider, especially on rear brakes on smaller frames. Sometimes the section of housing running from the frame to the noodle is stiff enough to push or pull on the arm. Try to adjust this loop's length to be as neutral as possible before using the tension screws for the final adjustment.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
07-24-10 | 06:10 PM
#4
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From: The 'Wack, BC, Canada
Bikes: Norco (2), Miyata, Canondale, Soma, Redline
If you installed these yourself it may be that you got the pin that holds the spring bushing into the wrong hole on the front and that is why it is too tight.
Otherwise I have never seen a spring that was so tight that I could not move the screw easily enough without any risk of stripping out the head.
Otherwise I have never seen a spring that was so tight that I could not move the screw easily enough without any risk of stripping out the head.
