how to remove final two fork rings? (pressure fitted?)
#1
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Joined: Jan 2010
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how to remove final two fork rings? (pressure fitted?)
hey guys,
i'm in the process of stripping my bike and i've gotten everything off except these.
just wondering how to get them off... i wasn't sure what they were called...
i've tried just pulling them off and their tight as hell... i was wondering if they're glued or pressure fitted.

thanks in advance
i'm in the process of stripping my bike and i've gotten everything off except these.
just wondering how to get them off... i wasn't sure what they were called...
i've tried just pulling them off and their tight as hell... i was wondering if they're glued or pressure fitted.

thanks in advance
#3
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 36
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From: San Francisco, CA
Bikes: Leader 725TR
You would need a hammer and a head cup remover, something along the lines of this:
https://www.parktool.com/products/det...t=10&item=RT-1
https://www.parktool.com/products/det...t=10&item=RT-1
#5
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
They are pressed in, a long flat bladed screwdriver will work . there is an edge to the cup,
It's more properly called the upper and lower headset race.
you tap on the inside edge of the race insert . with the flat blade of the screwdriver, go around the edge
not banging on one spot .. opposite sides, alternating..
It's got to be long enough to reach to the far side of the head-tube, of course.
It's more properly called the upper and lower headset race.
you tap on the inside edge of the race insert . with the flat blade of the screwdriver, go around the edge
not banging on one spot .. opposite sides, alternating..
It's got to be long enough to reach to the far side of the head-tube, of course.
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-10-10 at 01:23 AM.
#6
Cat 6

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 219
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From: Orlando, FL
Bikes: Scott CR-1, Serotta Legend, Serotta CR, Co-Motion Speedster tandem, Masi Nuevo Strada fixie
Sure a Park headcup removal tool would be the perfect way to go, but actually if you are careful, any metal rod in conjuntion with some careful hammer taps will get them out. A large punch, a socket wrench extension or something equivalent would do the trick. Just move the rod around so the part exits relatively straight. If you hit in one spot it will cock the part on an angle and it will be more difficult to remove.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,559
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From: The 'Wack, BC, Canada
Bikes: Norco (2), Miyata, Canondale, Soma, Redline
Yep, back and forth from one side to the opposite side. It's actually easier, quicker and less strain on the parts than doing it around in a circle. You want to walk it out in very small steps and repeat the back and forth about 25 to 30 times until it falls free. If it comes out in less repetitions then you're moving it too much per time.
#10
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From: Idaho
Bikes: Haro Escape Hardtail, 80's SR, 90's KHS Flite 500, Raleigh Revenio Aluminum 3.0, Raleigh Revenio Carbon 3.0
The cups will go back in just fine with a chunk of 2x4. Lay the board across the cup (with another board under the headstem) and tap them in, flip the frame and do the other side. Make sure they are seated all the way and even or you will never get proper bearing seating.
#11
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,559
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From: The 'Wack, BC, Canada
Bikes: Norco (2), Miyata, Canondale, Soma, Redline
With some care and a bit of skill and realizing that you want to put them back in as gently as practical you can actually do a fine job of walking them back in with a block of wood and a hammer. But the key is to do this with some amount of skill and be careful to use small taps on the wood padding and to walk the cups into the frame only a couple of degrees at a time similar to the drift pin and hammer method of taking them out but in reverse.





