chain problems
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: michigan
chain problems
This is my first post. This sight looks awesome!
I have a 21 speed with shimano gears. Recently my chain started jumping or skipping when I ride, especially under high tension (standing up etc.) I adjusted the front and rear derailers, but it still does this. Could the chain need shortening? Any suggestions as to where I should take a look next?
Thanks,
Bill
I have a 21 speed with shimano gears. Recently my chain started jumping or skipping when I ride, especially under high tension (standing up etc.) I adjusted the front and rear derailers, but it still does this. Could the chain need shortening? Any suggestions as to where I should take a look next?
Thanks,
Bill
#2
It could be that your chain isnt compatible with your drive train....it could be that you need a new chain ( chains should be replaced once every year or two at least)...it could be that your rear derailer needs its limits adjusted...or it could be that you are riding in a gear ratio that stretches your chain too much.
#6
Welcome to BikeForums!
Sometimes, "auto-shifting" can be caused by frame flex, which also occurs predominantly under hard efforts. But that's not a problem that would have just manifested itself, unless your frame has cracked or been damaged. It's worth a check just to be safe.
You can check the chain by measuring. On a new chain, you should be able to measure exactly 12" from center to center of 12 inner/outer link pairs. On a worn chain, if it measures 12 1/16", it's time to change it. If it measures 12 1/8", you're overdue and wearing out your drive train.
A lot of people complain about gear wear on the freewheel. I notice it more on the chainrings (maybe it's a roadie thing). Either way, if that's the problem, the new chain will make it worse (since they've worn adapting to the "stretched" chain).
Sometimes, "auto-shifting" can be caused by frame flex, which also occurs predominantly under hard efforts. But that's not a problem that would have just manifested itself, unless your frame has cracked or been damaged. It's worth a check just to be safe.
You can check the chain by measuring. On a new chain, you should be able to measure exactly 12" from center to center of 12 inner/outer link pairs. On a worn chain, if it measures 12 1/16", it's time to change it. If it measures 12 1/8", you're overdue and wearing out your drive train.
A lot of people complain about gear wear on the freewheel. I notice it more on the chainrings (maybe it's a roadie thing). Either way, if that's the problem, the new chain will make it worse (since they've worn adapting to the "stretched" chain).
#7
Banned

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,688
Likes: 2
From: upstate New York
I'm fairly convinced that your cogs are toast, and that they will need to be replaced. Also, the chain must be replaced at the same time.
Cogsets are about $40 each, and a decent chain will set you back about $25.
Cogsets are about $40 each, and a decent chain will set you back about $25.
__________________
Je vais à vélo, donc je suis!
Je vais à vélo, donc je suis!
#11
Member

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
If you determine you need a new chain, you may have to replace the freewheel and chainrings as well. Usually a new chain won't jive with the old components.
If you replace the chain and the freewheel, sometimes you can turn the chainrings around and use the teeth from the other side.
Good Riding!
If you replace the chain and the freewheel, sometimes you can turn the chainrings around and use the teeth from the other side.
Good Riding!






