What headset do I have?
#1
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Thread Starter
What headset do I have?
Hey all. Got 2 headset ques.
1- Hope someone can enlighten me about which headset I have. My research turned up, I have a: 1" integrated IS standard headset. Am I reading this correct? I used the CaneCreek headset finder online.
(Bike is a 04 or 05, can't remember exactly... Felt F65. Totally stock.)
2- What tools will I need to purchase to properly remove the old and install the new? Chris King.com preaches reaming the faces. Is that overkill?
I appreciate the help.
1- Hope someone can enlighten me about which headset I have. My research turned up, I have a: 1" integrated IS standard headset. Am I reading this correct? I used the CaneCreek headset finder online.
(Bike is a 04 or 05, can't remember exactly... Felt F65. Totally stock.)
2- What tools will I need to purchase to properly remove the old and install the new? Chris King.com preaches reaming the faces. Is that overkill?
I appreciate the help.
#2
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I don't think it is a an integrated HS, just a regular threadless type. you need a crown race remover, a cup remover, crown race installer or slide hammer, and a headset press. alot of these tools can be homemade.
why do you want to replace the HS? unless the races are pitted or dimpled there is little reason to replace it. any benifit from upgrading is offset by the work involved in replacing it.
I would not ream the faces but I would use a facing tool. a facing tool will ensure the top and bottom of the headtube are parrelell to each other. when I was in the shop I always did this on frame up builds (on steel or Alloy) and on upperend bikes when replacing a HS.
it looks like you may have a gap between your frame and upper cup. perhaps it is just the way the cup is shaped.
why do you want to replace the HS? unless the races are pitted or dimpled there is little reason to replace it. any benifit from upgrading is offset by the work involved in replacing it.
I would not ream the faces but I would use a facing tool. a facing tool will ensure the top and bottom of the headtube are parrelell to each other. when I was in the shop I always did this on frame up builds (on steel or Alloy) and on upperend bikes when replacing a HS.
it looks like you may have a gap between your frame and upper cup. perhaps it is just the way the cup is shaped.
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#3
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Definitely not integrated. An integrated headset sytems means part of the headset (the two parts where the bearings are inserted, the cups) are integrated with the head tube. Cartridge bearings are inserted directly into the specially-machined head tube.
Regarding whether it is 1" or 1 1/8", you can measure it yourself. Remove the top cap and measure how wide the steerer tube is.
What is the reason you are replacing the headset? This is not usually the first upgrade made on a bike, as it makes so little difference. If the bearings are already cartridge, I'd be satisfied.
If you want to replace it, you should be able to use a standard headset in the appropriate size (1" vs. 1 1/8").
Regarding whether it is 1" or 1 1/8", you can measure it yourself. Remove the top cap and measure how wide the steerer tube is.
What is the reason you are replacing the headset? This is not usually the first upgrade made on a bike, as it makes so little difference. If the bearings are already cartridge, I'd be satisfied.
If you want to replace it, you should be able to use a standard headset in the appropriate size (1" vs. 1 1/8").
#4
That's just a standard threadless as she said. You'll have to measure it to figure out the exact size - either 1" or 1-1/8"
An IS headset has no cups on the outside of the headtube and all bearings sit internally. The only external part is the cap. Check out a CAAD9 if you want to see for yourself.
An IS headset has no cups on the outside of the headtube and all bearings sit internally. The only external part is the cap. Check out a CAAD9 if you want to see for yourself.
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There is too much of the headset visible for it to be integrated or semi-integrated. Bikepedia claims that you have a 1 1/8" threadless headset and your photos support that. The headset finder isn't that practical because it requires you to measure areas that are inaccessible with an installed headset.
#7
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Thread Starter
Ok. The consensus seems unanimous! Thanks. I'll hunt down the correct headset.
And yes, the headset is junk. Major indexing. I can hang it on my stand and the bars center themselves with an audible click. Bet I find a pretty healthy dimple on one or both of the races. (side question: Can I just rotate the bearings and/or race? Will that stop the indexing?)
A few posters have shown pics of their homemade headset presses.. so that seems like @ least 1 tool I can fab pretty cheaply.
Do any of you really do the reaming / facing?
And yes, the headset is junk. Major indexing. I can hang it on my stand and the bars center themselves with an audible click. Bet I find a pretty healthy dimple on one or both of the races. (side question: Can I just rotate the bearings and/or race? Will that stop the indexing?)
A few posters have shown pics of their homemade headset presses.. so that seems like @ least 1 tool I can fab pretty cheaply.
Do any of you really do the reaming / facing?
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no a reaming/facing tool is totally different.
I assume you have tried to adjust your headset? you can try and rotate your upper and lower cups 90' in oppesite directions and the crown race 180'. however if your going through that trouble you may as well replace it.
if you have never replaced a HS before you may be better off just taking it to the shop.
this is a reamer/facer
![](https://www.ebikestop.com//prodimages/TL7270.jpg)
this is a headset press
![](https://www.ebikestop.com//prodimages/TL7080.jpg)
here are more headset tools than you could ever want
https://www.ebikestop.com/component_s...ltManufact=588
I assume you have tried to adjust your headset? you can try and rotate your upper and lower cups 90' in oppesite directions and the crown race 180'. however if your going through that trouble you may as well replace it.
if you have never replaced a HS before you may be better off just taking it to the shop.
this is a reamer/facer
![](https://www.ebikestop.com//prodimages/TL7270.jpg)
this is a headset press
![](https://www.ebikestop.com//prodimages/TL7080.jpg)
here are more headset tools than you could ever want
https://www.ebikestop.com/component_s...ltManufact=588
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#9
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I have used a home made rig for installing cups consisting of a 2'-0 length of 3/4" threaded rod with two sets of nuts and washers. Some people have taken it a step further and buy bushings that match their cup profile, but I haven't had a problem going without. I now have crown race installer, but I have successfully installed them buy sliding the steerer with the race in place down an old frame's seat tube and using that as an anvil. I have also used dremel to carefully grind away enough of a race to be able to pry it off, but I take no responsibility if you f*** that one up. And for cup removal I also grabed a cheap tool on eBay consisting of a split pipe that has been flared out. You push it backwards through the cup you want to remove until the flares snap inside and then use a mallet to tap the cup back out. Before I had that using a long heavy screwdriver and a hammer to tap it out works, but again you want to go slow and really, really careful.
#10
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Have you tried adjusting the headset? Might be irreparable now, but the headset bearings might be pre-loaded too tightly.