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you'll possibly need shorter crank bolts (i just bought a set of 5 at an lbs for $4) and you'll need allen wrenches to remove the extra rings and the front derailer. to remove the left shifter, you'll need either an allen wrench or a screwdriver, depending on the shifter.

Personally, i don't think these 1 by 7,8,9, or 10 set ups are as cool as you might think. As you shift the rear, the drive chain's angle changes, and the tension varies briefly between shifts. Many folks who run "1 by x" drivetrains keep a bashgurd on, and run a chainkeeper to prevent the chain from falling inboard of the chainring. That solves the derailing issue, but now you've replaced 3 parts with 2 others...

just my $.02
-rob

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For your information, they're usually called chainwheels or chainrings, not sprockets.

And whether they're removable or not, it depends. On cheap cranksets the chainrings can be riveted in place, where slightly more expensive cranksets have bolted-on chainrings. Bolted, removal is easy. Riveted, it takes some more serious tools and determination.
Do note that removing the smallest will require pulling the crankarm off, unless you wish to cut it off. Pulling the crankarm usually require the use of a crank puller tool, but is somewhat dependent on which crank and bottom bracket you have.

True, but not by a lot. All in all it's a fair bit of tinkering for not much actual benefit, maybe 2 lbs or so. Not that much as seem as a fraction of the whole bike weight.


Depends on your riding style and your expectations.
Running one ring and no derailer might cause the bike to throw its chain every now and them.
If that becomes a problem you might want to either reinstall the derailer and lock it in place by the limit screws, or get one of those chain devices used by DH MTBers.

Oh, and there's that chain ring bolt length thing that's already been pointed out.

Going from 7 to 8 would require a new shifter to match the new cassette, and probably a new rear wheel.
A reasonably current 7-speed is most likely to be a freewheel, while 8-speed is likely to be a freehub. There are 8 speed freewheels, but they're not really a recommended option.
You may keep the rear derailer though, assuming you stay within the Shimano family.
It's also prudent to change the chain if you're changing the cassette.

If your crankset does not use rivets to hold the chainrings onto the spyder then you can do this mod by just getting some shorter single speed or BMX chainring bolts. Some folks have apparently had some issues with the chains falling off the solo ring but I've got a bike that I've ridden for years now that has not had this problem. Or if it has occured it has been so rare that I can't remember it happening.

How much lighter it makes the bike isn't much at all. You'll be removing only about a 1/2 to 2/3 of a lb at most. If your bike is one of the cheaper ones from the lineup that weighs in at around 30 lbs then you won't even notice the change. If you are enjoying your riding and still need to cart the bike up and down like this every day you may want to lighten your bike by replacing the whole thing with something that tags in at under 25 lbs. Along with the lighter weight you'll find that the bike is more rigid, spirited and responsive thanks to lighter wheels and a frame that is made from a stiffer and lighter tube type. All in all a nice bike compared to a lower end bike will make it feel like you've been working out at the gym for a month in a serious program...

In the meantime which model of Norco is it?

I know it looks cleaner, but honestly - don't bother.

I like to add a toothless chain/trouser guard in place of the outer chain ring.

Then you can buy a clamp on piece that fits around the seat tube, that keeps the chain from coming off on the inside .. jump stop, chain minder or fang , etc.

so chain stays put on the one remaining chainring and the pants stay a bit tidier.

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The crankset on that bike has chainrings that are tack welded or riveted on. The only thing you are going to remove is the chainguard (it is bolted on). This crankset is designed to be a throw away. I guess you could go crazy on it with a side grinder.

If you want to go with one front ring, then you need to look into a new crankset and very likely a new bottom bracket to match.


This change also will make resale more difficult, and likely lowers its value. As an entry bike, as you get more into riding, you probably will move up a step or two. I seem to move up in bikes every three or four months (but I always buy used, otherwise, moving up gets a little costly).

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Truthfully your best project on this bike would be to just go over all the major parts of the bike and ensure that they are clean, lubed correctly and adjusted spot on in every case. Any replacement parts you buy should be limited only to making the bike fit you better so you can ride in more comfort. The Yorkville is a good enough bike for what it is but nothing you do to it will make it into a lightweight racer. It is what it is.

Meanwhile the money you save by not doing a lot of upgrades can go into buying a nicer and lighter bike. Use the Yorkville along with test rides on some other bikes to fine tune what you want in a bike with the realities of how and where you ride firmly in mind. With a better bike will come the lighter weight you are after to aid in schlepping the bike up and down those stairs more easily.

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Keep in mind that a GOOD folder which doesn't creak, groan and fight you in your quest for speed is a rare thing. I've ridden a Dahon folder and it's fine if you're going to toddle around a city as a tourist riding at a sedate pace. It's not a bike I'd want if I were riding for fitness or trying to get to work at a good turn of speed because I slept in a bit.

A good riding bike does not need to look expensive. There's many thousands of good quality CrMo framed bikes of yesteryear out there that will ride like the wind yet are rough enough looking and old enough in their components that they can sit locked up under a tree or other cover all day and no one will bother with them. It's just that with your Yorkville you got one of the heavier basic bikes.

What you want to look for in older bikes is the stickers on the frame that say what the material is. You're looking for the terms "Chrome Moly" or "CrMo" along with "butted" used in combination with words such as "special" or "double". These are indicators of the good quality higher performance older bikes. Be they an older mountain bike or 700c bike they signify that it's a bike worthy of careful examination of the rest of the drive train to see if it can be brought back to functional use for not too much money.