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V Brake levers

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Old 11-24-10 | 08:23 AM
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V Brake levers

Ok, trying to get an old specialized MB up and running on the cheap for a winter bike. Noticed that one of the rear Tektro arms is bound up. Pulled it off, degreased everything, and relubed but one side still seems to have no spring tension. So, If I replace the rear brake with a setup that is no Tektro do I also have to change out the brake levers? I wouldn't think so but not sure and could find an answer with a lot of searching.

I know disc brakes make better since for the winter but I really don't have the money for that and just want something to use out on the snow covered roads when I can to get off that damn trainer. I'm normally a roadie just trying to stay in shape over the winter.
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Old 11-24-10 | 09:26 AM
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V-brakes work great in the winter in my years of using them -- I've never wanted discs.

As long as the brake you replace your current v-brake with is also a v-brake (linear pull) your lever should still work just the same.

If you really think your old v-brake is shot, you might try pulling the little spring off of the brake arm on the side that isn't holding any tension and physically bending it outward to get more tension. I've done it on several old v-brakes and older road brakes with success.

HTH
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Old 11-28-10 | 08:25 PM
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Do you mean you replaced the rear brake with a cantilever brake and you're using a brake lever for a V-brake? I think you'd need to change the brake lever because the pull is different. For another V-brake, the same lever would suffice.
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Old 11-28-10 | 08:40 PM
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did you mess with the screws in both of the brake arms, to balance tension? I'm willing to bet you just need a little fiddlin'...

-rob
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Old 11-29-10 | 04:06 AM
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Do note that v-brake arms rarely pivot against the post directly. There's usually a bushing in the arm that the arm pivots around, then the bushing is clamped tight against the post.
You need a really runny lube if you want it to get in between brake arm and bushing. Greasing the post is functionally pointless, but might make removal easier.

V-brake levers as a rule has 35 mm or more between the "hinge" for the lever, and where the cable attaches. Easy enough to measure.
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Old 11-29-10 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by TurbineBlade
V-brakes work great in the winter in my years of using them -- I've never wanted discs.

As long as the brake you replace your current v-brake with is also a v-brake (linear pull) your lever should still work just the same.

If you really think your old v-brake is shot, you might try pulling the little spring off of the brake arm on the side that isn't holding any tension and physically bending it outward to get more tension. I've done it on several old v-brakes and older road brakes with success.

HTH
Yep, that's one of the first things I tried. The one brake seems gummed up.
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Old 11-29-10 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by dabac
Do note that v-brake arms rarely pivot against the post directly. There's usually a bushing in the arm that the arm pivots around, then the bushing is clamped tight against the post.
You need a really runny lube if you want it to get in between brake arm and bushing. Greasing the post is functionally pointless, but might make removal easier.

V-brake levers as a rule has 35 mm or more between the "hinge" for the lever, and where the cable attaches. Easy enough to measure.
Yep, this bushing is the problem. On the one arm it was really gummed up and stiff, not rotating at all. Tried cleaning and degreasing to no avail. Bought a set of Avid Single Digits and slapped them on. Took about a minute of fiddling to get the adjustments right and now I'm back to full rear braking power. Thanks to all!
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