V Brake levers
#1
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From: Utah
Bikes: Paletti,Pinarello Monviso,Duell Vienna,Giordana XL Super,Lemond Maillot Juane.& custom,PDG Paramount,Fuji Opus III,Davidson Impulse,Pashley Guv'nor,Evans,Fishlips,Y-Foil,Softride, Tetra Pro, CAAD8 Optimo,
V Brake levers
Ok, trying to get an old specialized MB up and running on the cheap for a winter bike. Noticed that one of the rear Tektro arms is bound up. Pulled it off, degreased everything, and relubed but one side still seems to have no spring tension. So, If I replace the rear brake with a setup that is no Tektro do I also have to change out the brake levers? I wouldn't think so but not sure and could find an answer with a lot of searching.
I know disc brakes make better since for the winter but I really don't have the money for that and just want something to use out on the snow covered roads when I can to get off that damn trainer. I'm normally a roadie just trying to stay in shape over the winter.
I know disc brakes make better since for the winter but I really don't have the money for that and just want something to use out on the snow covered roads when I can to get off that damn trainer. I'm normally a roadie just trying to stay in shape over the winter.
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#2
V-brakes work great in the winter in my years of using them -- I've never wanted discs.
As long as the brake you replace your current v-brake with is also a v-brake (linear pull) your lever should still work just the same.
If you really think your old v-brake is shot, you might try pulling the little spring off of the brake arm on the side that isn't holding any tension and physically bending it outward to get more tension. I've done it on several old v-brakes and older road brakes with success.
HTH
As long as the brake you replace your current v-brake with is also a v-brake (linear pull) your lever should still work just the same.
If you really think your old v-brake is shot, you might try pulling the little spring off of the brake arm on the side that isn't holding any tension and physically bending it outward to get more tension. I've done it on several old v-brakes and older road brakes with success.
HTH
#3
Do you mean you replaced the rear brake with a cantilever brake and you're using a brake lever for a V-brake? I think you'd need to change the brake lever because the pull is different. For another V-brake, the same lever would suffice.
#5
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,687
Likes: 297
Do note that v-brake arms rarely pivot against the post directly. There's usually a bushing in the arm that the arm pivots around, then the bushing is clamped tight against the post.
You need a really runny lube if you want it to get in between brake arm and bushing. Greasing the post is functionally pointless, but might make removal easier.
V-brake levers as a rule has 35 mm or more between the "hinge" for the lever, and where the cable attaches. Easy enough to measure.
You need a really runny lube if you want it to get in between brake arm and bushing. Greasing the post is functionally pointless, but might make removal easier.
V-brake levers as a rule has 35 mm or more between the "hinge" for the lever, and where the cable attaches. Easy enough to measure.
#6
Thread Starter
Senior Member




Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 10,320
Likes: 9,881
From: Utah
Bikes: Paletti,Pinarello Monviso,Duell Vienna,Giordana XL Super,Lemond Maillot Juane.& custom,PDG Paramount,Fuji Opus III,Davidson Impulse,Pashley Guv'nor,Evans,Fishlips,Y-Foil,Softride, Tetra Pro, CAAD8 Optimo,
V-brakes work great in the winter in my years of using them -- I've never wanted discs.
As long as the brake you replace your current v-brake with is also a v-brake (linear pull) your lever should still work just the same.
If you really think your old v-brake is shot, you might try pulling the little spring off of the brake arm on the side that isn't holding any tension and physically bending it outward to get more tension. I've done it on several old v-brakes and older road brakes with success.
HTH
As long as the brake you replace your current v-brake with is also a v-brake (linear pull) your lever should still work just the same.
If you really think your old v-brake is shot, you might try pulling the little spring off of the brake arm on the side that isn't holding any tension and physically bending it outward to get more tension. I've done it on several old v-brakes and older road brakes with success.
HTH
__________________
Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.
#7
Thread Starter
Senior Member




Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 10,320
Likes: 9,881
From: Utah
Bikes: Paletti,Pinarello Monviso,Duell Vienna,Giordana XL Super,Lemond Maillot Juane.& custom,PDG Paramount,Fuji Opus III,Davidson Impulse,Pashley Guv'nor,Evans,Fishlips,Y-Foil,Softride, Tetra Pro, CAAD8 Optimo,
Do note that v-brake arms rarely pivot against the post directly. There's usually a bushing in the arm that the arm pivots around, then the bushing is clamped tight against the post.
You need a really runny lube if you want it to get in between brake arm and bushing. Greasing the post is functionally pointless, but might make removal easier.
V-brake levers as a rule has 35 mm or more between the "hinge" for the lever, and where the cable attaches. Easy enough to measure.
You need a really runny lube if you want it to get in between brake arm and bushing. Greasing the post is functionally pointless, but might make removal easier.
V-brake levers as a rule has 35 mm or more between the "hinge" for the lever, and where the cable attaches. Easy enough to measure.
__________________
Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.






