I'm tying to remove the cranks (Suntour SR) on my sons Marin Kentfield to tighten the BB and my Park CCP-22 seems a bit too big to thread in, is there another size I need? Thanks

The crank threads have been standardized for quite a while, so the puller should work. It's possible that your puller's threads are slightly off spec and too big, but more likely that a dinged first thread (especially if the cranks didn't have a threaded dust cap in place), or there's some dirt or grit interferring.

Clean everything (it's a close fitting thread), oil the threads, make sure the remover's pusher bolt is backed out, and carefully try threading the body in. If you can't get it started, examine the crank, and if necessary use a small file to partly remove the outer thread at about a 45° angle to help get started.

Finally do not attempt to remove the crank unless the puller is bottomed out. It takes all the threads to have enough strength, and if you try with only 1/2 threads engaged you'll rip them out of the arm.

Once again you are correct!!! I cleaned and oiled the threads really good and it threaded in. The cranks have never been off and never had a puller installed so it was a good tight fit. Better ask first then strip those threads. Thanks again....

I don't know if anyone wants to answer this but do you need a crank puller for a Shimano Sora crankset?

Yes you do. The body thread is standard (these days) but you'll need one with the larger pusher pad made for the larger spindles.

I was considering building a bike myself. If I wanted to install the bottom bracket and cranks, do you think it would be worth it or am I risking it if I don't have experience? If I improperly torque the cranks, would I have a hard time after that with the crankset?

I know I need a BB tool to install the bottom bracket but would I need a special tool to install the cranks or just a wrench?

To install the cranks it is best to use a torque wrench but many here have installed them for years without one. If you don't want to spring for the Park tools torque wrench, an inexpensive beam type torque wrench can be bought at Autozone, it 1/2" drive with a 1/2" to 3/8" drive adapter, I think I paid between $10 and $15 for it a couple of years ago. I have since bought the Park TW-2 but only because most of my tools got mistakenly diverted to storage during our move to Africa (or pilfered...won't know until we move back to the states).

If it is a square taper bottom bracket you will most likely need a 14mm socket. If it has an allen head bolt it could be 6mm but most likely 8mm. You can pick up allen wrench sockets at sears or autozone as well for very little money, and they are quite handy to have.

The Autozone wrench is accurate enough for installing the cranks and tightening the lug nuts on your car and such.

If you are installing a cartridge bottom bracket the job is pretty straight forward. Just read the instructions that come with the bottom bracket. Just make sure the tool you use has good contact with the bottom bracket and I highly encourage you to either grease the bottom bracket shell threads or apply anti-seize.

I would wager you are installing an english threaded bottom bracket...just remember the drive side is threaded counter-clockwise (left hand threaded). Becareful not to crossthread the device upon intially engaging it with the frame.

-j

And now for the dumb question of the week. If you can install cranks with an allen key, why do you need a crank puller to remove them?

Godawful friction, that's why. The hold-down bolt kind of presses the crankarm onto the spindle, and the square taper is made for a *tight* friction fit. ISIS and Octolink did much to address this, but come with their own set of (admittedly less-difficult) issues.