Stubborn Crank
12-11-10, 06:59 PM
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izpmuddy
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Stubborn Crank
So I screwed in the crank removal tool and started to tighten it up and when it gets tight it seems like im having to put a lot of pressure on it and it wont loosen, are there any tips or tricks to remove a stubborn crank?
12-11-10, 07:14 PM
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17yrold in 64yrold body
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Sometimes they can be pretty tight. Make sure the bolt is fully retracted when you screw in the tool. It should screw in over half its thickness at least, then start turning in the removal bolt. Might take some muscle to make it come off. It may be a good idea to put a little lube on the spindle before reinstalling the crank, to insure a solid fit, without extra tightening required.
12-11-10, 09:51 PM
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we be rollin'
I saw a youtube video by bikemanforu showing he tapped the crank puller in once with a hammer to have a more solid grip on the crank.
12-11-10, 09:59 PM
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Some times I've used one of those dead blow hammers; not a huge one, but something like a 2 pounder. A little impact can sure make a difference.
12-11-10, 10:50 PM
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Stubborn crank? Sounds like my neighbor.
Seriously, square taper cranks can take lots of force to remove. But before lean on the wrench, back off the pusher and make sure it pushes directly against the spindle and not on a washer or the crank arm itself. (some removers have larger pusher pads for the larger diameter spindles)
Also make sure the remover body is threaded all the way into the crank arm (usually 5+ turns). Trying to remove a tight crank with the remover not fully engaged is an easy way to strip the arm.
Once you've checked that all is as it should be, go ahead and really lean into the wrench until something gives. (if it's the right crank, make sure you won't slam your knuckles into the chainring when it finally goes)
Seriously, square taper cranks can take lots of force to remove. But before lean on the wrench, back off the pusher and make sure it pushes directly against the spindle and not on a washer or the crank arm itself. (some removers have larger pusher pads for the larger diameter spindles)
Also make sure the remover body is threaded all the way into the crank arm (usually 5+ turns). Trying to remove a tight crank with the remover not fully engaged is an easy way to strip the arm.
Once you've checked that all is as it should be, go ahead and really lean into the wrench until something gives. (if it's the right crank, make sure you won't slam your knuckles into the chainring when it finally goes)
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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12-11-10, 11:26 PM
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it's easier if you wear some work gloves and use the cranks for leverage.
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
12-12-10, 08:05 AM
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One seemingly silly question; you did remove the fixing bolts first right? Also as noted above, be sure there are no washers still in the crank before you install the puller.
12-12-10, 09:13 AM
#9
You gonna eat that?
Originally Posted by bragi 
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