Crown Race just slightly too small to fit fork....facing? or?
#1
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From: Modesto, Ca
Bikes: klein quantum, litespeed tuscany, bianchi pista concept, centurion comp ta, centurion super le mans, traitor ringleader
Crown Race just slightly too small to fit fork....facing? or?
hi!
sorry in advance if this is covered elsewhere...
so i have a 1inch threaded fork, and 1inch threaded headset. Crown Race, even with a crown race tool (well, a pipe and thick washers) i cant hammer the crown race down.
basically the crown race slides down the steerer tube fine, but the last 1inch or less of "seat" (or whatever thats called) prevents the crown race from going down to the very bottom.
I have read about "facing" or machining this area of the fork to take off a touch of material, but cursory google searching shows such tool is crazy expensive....and i have had a falling out with my LBS for numerous reasons so i would really like to NOT go there for help....
anywho is there some magical trick to getting it on? perhaps freezing and heating? (i remember a little from physics class lol)....is it bad idea to try to file it down myself? (sounds super time consuming)...
also, while ive noticed other crown races are split, this one is not. im assuming being split would probably help in this situation....oh well.
anyway thanks in advance for any advice!
sorry in advance if this is covered elsewhere...
so i have a 1inch threaded fork, and 1inch threaded headset. Crown Race, even with a crown race tool (well, a pipe and thick washers) i cant hammer the crown race down.
basically the crown race slides down the steerer tube fine, but the last 1inch or less of "seat" (or whatever thats called) prevents the crown race from going down to the very bottom.
I have read about "facing" or machining this area of the fork to take off a touch of material, but cursory google searching shows such tool is crazy expensive....and i have had a falling out with my LBS for numerous reasons so i would really like to NOT go there for help....
anywho is there some magical trick to getting it on? perhaps freezing and heating? (i remember a little from physics class lol)....is it bad idea to try to file it down myself? (sounds super time consuming)...
also, while ive noticed other crown races are split, this one is not. im assuming being split would probably help in this situation....oh well.
anyway thanks in advance for any advice!
#3
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how big is the fork crown race seat? have you measured it?
seek out a larger crown race? If it's a sealed cartridge bearing headsdet
a split crown would be OK as the cartridge bearing is still a complete circular ring.
loose ball headset , .. ? what headset did you buy, what is the ID of the crown race?
seek out a larger crown race? If it's a sealed cartridge bearing headsdet
a split crown would be OK as the cartridge bearing is still a complete circular ring.
loose ball headset , .. ? what headset did you buy, what is the ID of the crown race?
#4
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From: Modesto, Ca
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although i do have some coming the mail, as of now i do not have calipers to measure with.
yes, the headset is sealed cartridge.
so is it OK to use a crown race that did not come with the particular headset? i had just assumed no since ive come across a few crown races that seemed slightly different...
yes, the headset is sealed cartridge.
so is it OK to use a crown race that did not come with the particular headset? i had just assumed no since ive come across a few crown races that seemed slightly different...
#6
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Bad advice while it might work, crown races are through hardened and not able to tolerate much distortion. The amount of allowable expansion is engineered into the level of interference. If expanded with heat it'll be over stressed as it cools and contracts and may crack.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#7
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Assuming your fork had a crown race before, and the new one doesn't fit, it's likely that the crown is JIS (27.0mm) vs the more common 26.4mm. JIS is japan industrial standard and is ised on forks intended for the Japanese home market but often show up in the US. they were common on Specialized bikes for a number of years, but were also used on many other brands.
Before forcing and maybe cracking your race measure the crown seat. It should be no bigger than 26.45mm (0.05mm interference) or 27.05mm for JIS. and make sure the crown race matches.
If you don't have a caliper, but have the original crown race compare the two by hanging them over the 1" section of the fork and using an improvised feeler gauge, to see if they're the same.
If it turns out your fork is milled JIS you can purchase the right headset or just the crown race, or bring the fork to a decent mechanic who can Hollow-mill it down for a 26.4 crown.
If it's a new fork, that never had a crown race fitted, it needs to be checked and maybe milled to spec.
Before forcing and maybe cracking your race measure the crown seat. It should be no bigger than 26.45mm (0.05mm interference) or 27.05mm for JIS. and make sure the crown race matches.
If you don't have a caliper, but have the original crown race compare the two by hanging them over the 1" section of the fork and using an improvised feeler gauge, to see if they're the same.
If it turns out your fork is milled JIS you can purchase the right headset or just the crown race, or bring the fork to a decent mechanic who can Hollow-mill it down for a 26.4 crown.
If it's a new fork, that never had a crown race fitted, it needs to be checked and maybe milled to spec.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 12-13-10 at 05:35 PM.
#8
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From: A Coffin Called Earth. or Toronto, ON
Bikes: Bianchi, Miyata, Dahon, Rossin
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-headsets.html
differences: ISO, JIS
crown race: 26.4, 27.0mm
frame cup: 30.0, 30.2mm
differences: ISO, JIS
crown race: 26.4, 27.0mm
frame cup: 30.0, 30.2mm
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#9
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From: Oklahoma
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
DO NOT TRY TO FORCE IT.
When I built up my Colnago the Chris King lower race would not quite fit over the Colnago fork crown lug. My LBS had to borrow the correct facing tool from a friend to dress off the fork lug.
Do it right, forks are not cheap.
When I built up my Colnago the Chris King lower race would not quite fit over the Colnago fork crown lug. My LBS had to borrow the correct facing tool from a friend to dress off the fork lug.
Do it right, forks are not cheap.
#11
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a loose ball headset is different from one made to go with a sealed bearing headset.
and so are the crown races.
Wait till you have that caliper in hand to know what you have
and how far out you are ..
may be better to get a second crownrace , of appropriate diameter,
if available, for the brand and model of headset you bought.
perhaps you should take bike and headset down to LBS and have them install it.
crown race cutter in the bike shop's tool box is a better way to go.
perhaps head tube needs to be faced too...
and so are the crown races.
Wait till you have that caliper in hand to know what you have
and how far out you are ..
may be better to get a second crownrace , of appropriate diameter,
if available, for the brand and model of headset you bought.
perhaps you should take bike and headset down to LBS and have them install it.
crown race cutter in the bike shop's tool box is a better way to go.
perhaps head tube needs to be faced too...
Last edited by fietsbob; 12-13-10 at 07:24 PM.
#12
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#13
Bad advice while it might work, crown races are through hardened and not able to tolerate much distortion. The amount of allowable expansion is engineered into the level of interference. If expanded with heat it'll be over stressed as it cools and contracts and may crack.
. FWIW, Slightly heating parts is a common method for installing races and bearing sets in industrial machinery.
Last edited by rogerstg; 12-14-10 at 08:06 AM.
#14
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Absolutely, if they're dimensionally correct for the job. The fact that the crown race can't be pressed on with a slide hammer indicates that the crown is larger than the 26.45 (.05 oversize) for the race and ignoring that is a good way to crack the crown whether it's by excessive pressing force or by thermal expansion. As far as I'm concerned the OP or anyone else is welcome to force the race on, after all it's their race, but they should be aware if the likelihood of fracturing it.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#15
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This whole discussion would be much more useful if the OP would tell us:
Brand, model, and size of headset
Brand, model, and size of fork
1" threaded is not specific enough to answer the question...
Brand, model, and size of headset
Brand, model, and size of fork
1" threaded is not specific enough to answer the question...
#16
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From: New Rochelle, NY
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If the OP has access to a caliper actual dimensions would help, but by this time the OP has enough info that once he measures things he won't need us anymore.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#17
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AEO did give sheldon's relevant data
differences: ISO,.. JIS
crown race: 26.4, .. 27.0mm
frame cup: 30.0, .. 30.2mm
pick up a 27.0 *version of the crown race, and mill the fork if it doesn't fit.
*It's the larger ID, perhaps it will drop on,
differences: ISO,.. JIS
crown race: 26.4, .. 27.0mm
frame cup: 30.0, .. 30.2mm
pick up a 27.0 *version of the crown race, and mill the fork if it doesn't fit.
*It's the larger ID, perhaps it will drop on,
Last edited by fietsbob; 12-14-10 at 10:59 AM.
#18
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The OP needs to measure both the fork crown and the race. That and the info provided here already will tell him all that he needs to know, and without actual measurements no opinion can do any good.
BTW- though the nominal size of a JIS crown is 26.4 the crown seat on the fork should be 26.45 to provide for the correct interference fit. Likewise for JIS, 27.0 nominal, 27.05 actual.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#19
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If you just need to get a little material off the fork crown. rather than file the fork crown, you could try sandpaper. Get good cloth backed paper (not too coarse), cut a strip about 1/2 wide & 10+ inches long, secure the fork, take one end in each hand. Run back & forth over the crown. You can count the # of strokes, rotate the fork, repeat, and it should come out pretty even.
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#20
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From: Modesto, Ca
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thanks all for the sound advice....much which admittedly i have not taken lol....sorry but this might irke quite a few of you....but....
lets just say i dont know the make of the fork. it was NOS off ebay for around 30 bucks. chrome, lugged, threaded. thats all i know. considering this is for a beater singlespeed coaster brake bike built around an old Phillips 3 speed frame from the 60s i bought for 10 dollars, the lazy/impatient side of me got the best of my meticulous side.
i surely would have waited for the calipers i have coming in the mail, measured the fork crown seat and the crown race and then had it machined professionally by the LBS (although admittedly i am trying to boycott them for various reasons, hence trying to do as much home mechanic work as possible without them) if it was for a nicer build...
HOWEVER i just went the brute force route and took a file to the fork last night. i think i did a pretty good job filing evenly around, by counting to 10 strokes from 12 oclock to 1 to 2 to 3 oclock, etc.....
and it worked! didn't need much filing at all. about a TV show's worth. even put the fork in the freezer while i did it, then put the crown race under very hot water. not sure if it helped or not, but all in all the crown race is finally on and im happy.
NOW, was this the right way to go about it? probably not. will going about it this way result in catastrophic failure? im thinking no. but ill definitely report back if still alive when it does
thanks everyone.
lets just say i dont know the make of the fork. it was NOS off ebay for around 30 bucks. chrome, lugged, threaded. thats all i know. considering this is for a beater singlespeed coaster brake bike built around an old Phillips 3 speed frame from the 60s i bought for 10 dollars, the lazy/impatient side of me got the best of my meticulous side.
i surely would have waited for the calipers i have coming in the mail, measured the fork crown seat and the crown race and then had it machined professionally by the LBS (although admittedly i am trying to boycott them for various reasons, hence trying to do as much home mechanic work as possible without them) if it was for a nicer build...
HOWEVER i just went the brute force route and took a file to the fork last night. i think i did a pretty good job filing evenly around, by counting to 10 strokes from 12 oclock to 1 to 2 to 3 oclock, etc.....
and it worked! didn't need much filing at all. about a TV show's worth. even put the fork in the freezer while i did it, then put the crown race under very hot water. not sure if it helped or not, but all in all the crown race is finally on and im happy.
NOW, was this the right way to go about it? probably not. will going about it this way result in catastrophic failure? im thinking no. but ill definitely report back if still alive when it does

thanks everyone.
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