Bottom Bracket Mounted Rear Brake
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: Somehere West of The Rockies
Bikes: 2005 MTB
Bottom Bracket Mounted Rear Brake
I have my eye on a used MTB bike that has the rear brake components setup down at the bottom bracket. Are there any advantages/disadvantages to this setup. My concerns would keeping the components clean of debris etc.
Comments??
Thanks.
Comments??
Thanks.
#2
Pain Cleanseth

Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 1
From: The only drug in me is beer.
Bikes: On*One Imbred (commuter), Specialized Rockcombo(commuter)
Originally Posted by trickdog
I have my eye on a used MTB bike that has the rear brake components setup down at the bottom bracket. Are there any advantages/disadvantages to this setup. My concerns would keeping the components clean of debris etc.
Comments??
Thanks.
Comments??
Thanks.
#3
legalize bikes

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,250
Likes: 1
From: bucks county, PA
Bikes: too damn many
those are U-brakes down there. they work pretty well, but it depends on what you will be using the bike for. if its street only, not a problem. if you plan on riding off-road you may have problems with brush getting caught up on the brakes, and if its wet out, the brake will get swallowed in mud.
personally i think chainstay mounted U-brakes look pretty cool, but don't perform well off road bc of the reason listed above. one of my bikes is an '88 trek 850 with brakes mounted in that style, cool lookin'.
personally i think chainstay mounted U-brakes look pretty cool, but don't perform well off road bc of the reason listed above. one of my bikes is an '88 trek 850 with brakes mounted in that style, cool lookin'.
#5
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: Somehere West of The Rockies
Bikes: 2005 MTB
[QUOTE=legalize_it]those are U-brakes down there. they work pretty well, but it depends on what you will be using the bike for. if its street only, not a problem. if you plan on riding off-road you may have problems with brush getting caught up on the brakes, and if its wet out, the brake will get swallowed in mud.
The bike is going be used for a daily commuter on paved roads so hopefully this won't be an issue. How about rainy weather, any problems with these brakes?
The bike is going be used for a daily commuter on paved roads so hopefully this won't be an issue. How about rainy weather, any problems with these brakes?
#8
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: Somehere West of The Rockies
Bikes: 2005 MTB
Originally Posted by jeff williams
Must be a very old bike, some of them are a steal, (and steel!) what type?
Overall it is in decent shape, it could use a paint job, the tires hold air, rear tire needs a bit of trueing, and other minor adjustments.
I think for the asking price of only $39.00 CDN it is a steal...
#10
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,521
Likes: 3
From: Montreal
Bikes: Peugeot Hybrid, Minelli Hybrid
My first bike had the rear brake under the BB. It was not too powerful. The brake was actuated by rods and bell-cranks. The bike was a Hercules. You can see a picture of one like it on p 18 of Nov Bicycling.
#11
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,417
Likes: 1,882
From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
My Schwinn has the under-stay U-brake, which was quite fashionable in its day (mid-to-late 1980s). This is essentially an evolutionary deadend, except among some of the BMXers. I have had no significant problems with the setup, and the brakes (SunTour RollerCam in front) are quite satisfactory for my mix of on-road and highly nontechnical dirt trail riding.
One downside is that the under-the-downtube brake cable routing precludes double-cross gear cable routing, in which the gear cables make an X under the downtube.
One downside is that the under-the-downtube brake cable routing precludes double-cross gear cable routing, in which the gear cables make an X under the downtube.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#12
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: Somehere West of The Rockies
Bikes: 2005 MTB
Thansk to all that replied, I just bought the bike 1/2 an hour ago and will be giving it a tuneup this am, and hopefully give it a good ride this afternoon.
I cannot find any brand name markings in the bike anywhere, for $39.00 not that it matters much. The only thing I wonder what the frame is made of. The bike is very light, did manufacturers make frames from aluminum back in the day? I have a feeling this bike was made back in late 80's to early 90's.
Is there any way to tell what the frame is made from. If I flick the frame tube with my finger it has almost the same sound as my other bike which is made from aluminum.
I cannot find any brand name markings in the bike anywhere, for $39.00 not that it matters much. The only thing I wonder what the frame is made of. The bike is very light, did manufacturers make frames from aluminum back in the day? I have a feeling this bike was made back in late 80's to early 90's.
Is there any way to tell what the frame is made from. If I flick the frame tube with my finger it has almost the same sound as my other bike which is made from aluminum.





