Its stated on the rims as 23 - 28. I took it to mean nothing bigger. the internal width is 18mm. I bought another set of rims via mail and it was 19mm.

I am unfamiliar with 700c tires and sizings. Another reason why i sticked to 26 is that I needed to change a larger 700c tire, tube and damaged rims and maybe even spokes and I am not sure if the project works and for the front too.

If it doesn't, I got these parts that i have no use for. 26" is different, the rest of my bikes back home are all 26.

Please dont get your hopes too high regarding Frankenbike, I gotten it for 18.20 USD and stll it isnt a good buy. Its was a buy first then think kind of thing. I am glad the rear wheel is done. I could not stop thinking about how to settle that. LOL

If you're replacing the front fork you could try for a suspension corrected 26" fork.
Suspension corrected forks are taller axle to crown. They're intended to maintain a bikes geometry when switching from suspension to rigid. If anything these will be taller than you want.

Just check the axle to crown measure of the current fork, measure the radius of the old wheel with tire, measure the radius of the new wheel with tire, subtract the new from the old, and the difference to the a to c of the current fork, and that will give you the a to c you want for the new fork.

You may want to use a fork with less rake and slightly more than equivalent a to c.
I'm sure there are others here more qualified to make recommendations about geometry, but any useful recommendations will require more info.

Switching the fork and using a drum brake is a creative solution. I hadn't considered that option.

Best of luck. If possible please post pictures.

If you give your location there may be a BFer near you who would give you a fork from their parts pile.
I have 2 rigid (not tall/suspension corrected) 26" forks with 1" steerer tube, 1 60mm travel suspension fork with 1" steer tube, 1 80mm travel suspension fork with 1 1/8" steer tube, and 1 rigid fork with 1 1/8" steer tube.

If you happen to be near Vegas I'd give you one of the 1" steerer forks or trade you one of the 1 1/8" 26" forks for the 700c fork.

Hi I'm am currently in shanghai right now, all these bikes would be sold or given when I get deposted. So its hard to get 700 parts and local bike shops rarely stock them and if they do, its at a premium.

For the front, I can probably get the brakes to fit on it with a 26" MTB without changing fork or I can change it so that it can accomodate a 26 * 2.3 tire. Theres probably many options in front. I am thinking which is the cheapest to do.

Was initially thinking of fitting a 700 * 45c tire to the front.

96'er conversions typically and a 29"/700c to the front of a 26" wheeled frame, but if you have a working rear brake and the bb is high enough I don't see any reason you can't do it this way.

Is there clearance for a 622x45?

If the reason for the 700c to 26" conversion is availability of parts you may want to go ahead and change the front with the back. When a wheel size is in short supply, in my experience, you end up with more trouble finding tires and tubes and end up paying more for them. I would at least check if a suitable fork is available, what the cost of the fork would be, and what the difference in costs for the tires would be.

Also don't forget that these changes will effect the geometry. If the front tire is replaced with a taller tire (I don't know what it came with, so I'm just guessing on this) and the rear is lowered you'll have more slack seat tube and head tube angles. This will probably mean a more upright riding position and more sluggish steering.
If you were converting a "road" bike to an urban city bike that would probably be a good thing, but if the frame has clearance for a 622x45 tire and a high enough bb to accommodate the change to 26" I'm guessing it's not a typical road bike. Is it a CX frame? A 29'er?

Using a taller 26" fork with less rake would still change the tube angles, but the difference in rake would help keep the steering from being to sluggish. It would also keep you from carrying two different size tubes, and if you'll be posted there long enough to need a second set of tires it would simplify matters there.

If the 700c in front works for you I don't see anything inherently wrong with that, I'm just trying to give food for thought.

thanks, its a road bike with skinny tires. appreciate your advice. think i should stick with 26 and not try the weird sizes. 23 * 700 is quite rare here. 700 * 45, I can forget about getting a tube from the local shops.

the usual sizes here are
28 1/2 roadster
26 mtb
26 1 3/8
24 mtb

I am looking for a more relaxed ride and there might not even be clearance for 45c. I think I better give up that idea.


Would like to share the way I discourage theft on an old commuter bike, a bit drastic and the lock is easily opened.
the heavy U lock I sometimes use over here. Look at the diameter compared to the AA size batt and incase it gets stolen, check out the department store bikes.

Maybe your best bet is to get a pet pitbull and leash him to your bike when it's parked.... :D

I really like 26x1 3/8. It's one of the sizes that's hard to find here. My options seem to be have them shipped from Asia, buy wheelchair tires (making sure they have the tread centered, most the performance tires have the tread offset), or get them from Walmart (not kidding, most convenient source). For wheels I can pay for custom build or find an old bike that has them (invariably chromed steel rims).

If it wasn't for the cost of shipping I would love to trade parts readily available here for parts readily available there.

...checking shipping cost...

Any reason why do you like that size? I have fixed a front 26 wheel and it fits. Both are now 1.5 slicks and i try to see if 1.75 fits if i can get slicks that size. My 1.95 slick would not fit. The BB bearing is shot and I am short of grease, it is disassembled. Will take a picture of the bike when the crank is up.

:lol: i try to discourage theft by giving a bad paint job. I have seen many bikes lock onto themself here. They can be carried off. I nearly had my electric scooter stolen here. They tried to push it and it only had its back wheel and steering locked.

After that, i locked the front and installed alarms.

But they're also disc brake which simplifies things.

my road bike doesn't have the disc mounts.

Yeah I read. Sucks to be you :) Wheel switches can be a beast if the design isn't there to help.

wait till I tell you about the stuck seatpost and stem. I think I would just leave it as an antitheft accessory. Ok, I admit... its too much trouble. :)

Once its ready, I'm eyeing this bike. Like the classic look but I hear the braking is lousy. Like to keep the rods for looks.

wondering how would it look if I were to install disc in front but keeping the fork and wheel? contradictory?

I like the 26x1 3/8" (590mm) wheel size because I have short legs. I have a compact geometry hybrid with 700c wheels that fits ok, but classic geometry/horizontal toptube isn't an option. There are plenty of 700c road bikes made for riders with legs as short or shorter than mine (31.5" bike inseam, 29" pants inseam), but they're made for short riders. I'm 6'1".
Some of the old 26x1 3/8" bikes have good standover height and a good toptube length. With a longer stem I get a better fit on an old 26" road bike than on almost any new bike (excluding custom).
The one I've been riding for the past couple years also has 165mm crank arms (much more common one these bikes, if you don't mind one piece cranks) which makes it MUCH easier for me to maintain a high cadence.

A while back there had been a push for 650b wheels for touring and commuter bikes. If you're interested in the advantages of smaller wheels and converting to smaller wheels do a search for 650b.

My only problem with 650b is cost (which, for good quality, is also an issue with 650a) and the fact that 650a was already a more pervasive standard (for older bikes and wheelchairs).

That would be a bit of a challenge. You'd have to add caliper mounts to the fork (doable, but likely to cost you some unless you're able to DIY. if nothing else it'll mess up the paintjob). Setting up a disc brake for rod actuation would be another hurdle. And while I'm reasonably certain that you can find a disc brake hub to lace your current rim to I'm equally certain that buying a whole new disc brake wheel would be cheaper.

On a side note, getting rid of rod actuated brakes is often seen as a milestone in the early evolution of cars. Not that a bike it entirely comparable, but still.

Hi

this are the pictures as promised. The brake lines have been cut since the picture and the rear brake have been changed to a lockable version. It was bought in a bad state and the BB bearings had even disintegrated. All have been serviced and a new BB installed, handles, seats etc.

That looks fine as long as you don't expect a lot of braking power or the ability to pedal unless perfectly upright.

I have tried cycling once but have not tried to see if the pedals were too low. If it it, will either have to ride like im on a coaster braked bike or change the frame to a MTB.

You are right, the front braking is mediocre but the rear brake is outstanding. I used to use this style of brake with an electric bike of 24inches wheel and with a pillion I was able to lock the back wheel and thats about 300lbs. Hope that it would supplement the weak front braking.

Thanks, will keep that in mind.

I have one of these conversions. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=270976 Used a small bmx crank to fix the clearance problem but am still working on the brakes, only front disc for now, will proly buy A2Z disc bracket for the rear...only $40 and quick fix to the brake and smaller wheel problem.

It's great to see people's projects and how they get things to work.

I would however, ask the cost of the parts and the original bike? could you have bought a 26" wheel bike and just rode it for the same money?
Craigslist is your friend...

Exactly. Thread/ (pretty much).

I was thinking about those A2Z disk adapters, but you have to be very careful whether they will work with your dropouts and hub.