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700c conversion to 26 wheels
can i convert a 700c bike to mtb wheels? anything i missed before I get the wheels?
the front n back caliper have been changed to larger tires would be the smaller type and fits. what about the back wheel portion? is the width of the 6 speed equal to 7 or 8? |
What frame are you using? Pics?
You're using caliper brakes? What calipers are you using? You'd need a massive drop bolt and some long arm calipers to reach a 26" Why are you doing this? Quote:
Many 6sp MTB wheels are set up for a 130 dropout width, which is pretty common for 8 speed road frames, for instance. |
650b is closer to 700c 622 - 584/2 = 19mm radius drop. those are popular conversions lately.
put 559, 26" in that calculation and the drop is 31.5mm |
Since you've measured brake reach and believe that's OK, you've cleared the biggest mechanical hurdle. There are some issues of rear axle width, but you can simply measure yours and read the specs for what you're buying. Worst comes to worst, you can spread the rear triangle of your metal frame to fit the new axle.
The one thing you should keep in mind is that you'll be lowering the bottom bracket and losing some pedal to ground clearance. It's a difference of almost 1" from the rim but will be less than that depending on the comparative width of the tires used. The only thing I can suggest, is that you ask yourself what you hope to gain by the switch, and decide that it makes sense for your needs before spending dough on a pair of wheels and brakes. |
I'll make it simpler: Without disc brakes or welding on cantilever studs in the right place, no you cannot. 650b might work, and would screw up the geometry way less.
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You can run 26" on pretty much any disc equipped 29er if you really wanted to.
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Without picture or specifics, I find it hard to believe you've found caliper brakes that will work. |
I have a feeling he's just sourced some calipers that can accommodate some 2" tires, not that can actually reach a 26" rim from a 700c frame's brake bridge.
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Surly uses 26" wheels on all the LHT's under 56CM. They said the wheels are more durable and easier to find.
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I've seen 27" to 700c conversions and 26" (559mm) to 700c conversions, but I haven't seen a (non-disc) 700c to 26"(559mm) conversion, and am not sure it's feasible without modifying the frame (install canti studs or disc mounts).
Looking at the wheel diameters I do have an off the wall question of my own; if you have a bike made for 26" wheels with u-brakes and convert to cantis or Vs could you use 28"(635mm) wheels? The size difference would be 38mm, with u-brakes reaching down 20mm and cantis extending up 20mm. I know it's not a common wheel size, but does anyone have them? How much clearance would the frame need to have (with the skinniest available tires)? |
A quick search shows tires available from Schwalbe and Kenda in the 635mm size, but only 28"x1 1/2". There may be some 26" wheel frames that could fit a 28" rim, but probably not with a 1 1/2" tire.
Don't suppose anyone makes a 635x25? |
Also consider the drop in BB height as a result of this conversion. If you're okay with that, then go ahead and keep us posted.
Thanks! |
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But I'll guess you cannot put Fat 29er MTB tires on those 700c rims and get them to fit in that bike.. |
Hi
I am doing this because i recently bought a run down bike which I had wanted to make it my commutering bike. On closer inspection, it got dry rotted tires and a bad rim too. The rim was a 23 and it wont be practical to have a pillion on it. The most the rim can take is a 28c which is still too small. I decided to run 26" on it because I was always curious on whether that can be done. This for the advice! you guys are a very knowledgable lot. |
Also,I got calipers, it barely fits. I could make the pads work by taking a couple of mm at the top so that it doesn't contact the side wall and the hub width didn't fit. The front seems to work. It would probably fit a 26 x 1 3/8 rim.
I bought a rear wheel and went to put 26 x 1.5. not sure if it would fit a 1.75. and used a center brake instead. Something like a band brake but works more like a car's drum brake. The stopping power I reckon would be very good. The BB has been lowered. but will not know the extend until i mount the front wheels. thanks for the advice. I will be getting a a front rim soon. I hope that i would work and it can be my commuter bike where I can park outside. I have other 2 bikes but I rarely ride them because here in Shanghai, bike do get missing. Benefits to me is that smaller is more stable due to lower center of gravity( i hope) and stronger 26 vs 700c rim, its easier to get spare parts too. 26" tires tend to be thicker and lower psi and I have a lot of 26" bikes back home. The next one I would buy would be a rod braked roadster with steel rims. Would like to find out if the 26 inches 1 3/8 steel variety would fit a 26 MTB rim with a longer 28 inches brake and if not, would the braking power be sufficient with aluminium rims. Also, maybe coaster brakes or 3 speed hubs. I like to maintain rods as much as possible. |
Check out this Sheldon Brown - Tire Sizing website. You want to get familiar with the ISO/ETRTO tyre-sizing system. The critical dimension is the bead-seat diameter (rim overall-diameter will be slightly larger). Measure this on your existing bike, then make marks on the frame of where the new size would end up. Then you can test whether your brakes can work beforehand.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/images/b...t-diameter.jpg |
I think the project is a solution looking for a problem. But that is just my opinion. I sincerely wish you the best and I hope you and your new 'Frankenbike' have many thousands of safe and happy miles together. :)
Some advice: First, on caliper brakes, the higher up the pads are mounted in the caliper the more braking power you will have - moving the pads closer to the brake pivot changes the leverage ratio in the caliper. Having a bike set up so it can only use filed-down brake pads is asking for trouble. In my opinion this is acceptable as a temporary measure only as it can result in the brake pad rubbing and damaging the tire if you are not careful, and it complicates maintenance. If the brakes do not quite reach, consider making or buying drop bolts as described by Sheldon Brown. Using a drop bolt to lower the mounting bolt allows you to have the pads higher up on the caliper so they make the correct contact with the rim, and so they are closer to the pivot and give you more power. Generally speaking, there are three ways to correct this: 1. Have the frame modified 2. Use a drop bolt 3. Find another model or style of brake that has a longer reach |
hi I managed to get the back wheel done and its running something like a band brake but works more like a car's drum brake. The front I will try the caliper and it should fit. If it doesn't, I would probably get a 700 c fork for disk mounts or a MTB fork with disc and V mounts. What would lowering the front fork affect bearing in mind that the rear has already been lowered to a 26 1.5 mtb rim with a drum brake? thanks for all the advice. 'Frankenbike' it is :)
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Drum brakes are ideal for running wrong size wheels. If they're ever available where you are, get them.
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One other thing: pictures would help a lot. You're throwing around a lot of tire sizes and options, and sometimes I don't know exactly what you're trying to do. Plus I'm curious to see your Frankenbike :) |
yes, i had considered welding a 5mm steel onto the rear frame so that I can mount the rear caliper if all else fails, good thing i din not have to do it that way. Will take a picture of the bike when completed. drum brakes are great and a cheaper alternative to disc. will have to try if the front wheel 26" works.
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