Rear derailler problem shifting.
#1
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 165
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From: souther NH
Bikes: 2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc 29er, 2009 DK Aura
Rear derailler problem shifting.
so heres the scoop.
i just bought a 1998 univega rover 300. here is a link to its info:
https://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/B...ga&Model=Rover 300&Type=bike
you can skip the next paragraph if you just want to hear the problem.
when i bought the bicycle it was missing the cable for the rear derailler. i bought a cable for it and installed it in the gripshift how it looked like it was supposed to be. everything looked good, so i closed up the gripshift and tightened the set-screw. i then greased the cable allitle then ran it through the housing. i ran it down the tube of the bicycle and through the bottom bracket guider. i then greased it again and ran it through the housing closest to the rear derailler. i put the shifter in the gear that made the cable the loosest and then pulled the cable tight and tightened the clamping bolt.
when i go to shift the cable into a different gear, when starting in gear 7, it is hard to pull and will not shift. when i am pedeling it shifts but skips 3 gears and goes into gear 3. it feels almost as if the cable is to tight, but when i loosen the cable it dangles off the bike becouse of how loose it is. the grip shift says saram on it but the derailler is shimano.
i am just wondering if this is becouse of the way i installed the cable or becouse a parts issue.
i will be happy to give any ifo on the bike as requested.
thank you in advance.
i just bought a 1998 univega rover 300. here is a link to its info:
https://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/B...ga&Model=Rover 300&Type=bike
you can skip the next paragraph if you just want to hear the problem.
when i bought the bicycle it was missing the cable for the rear derailler. i bought a cable for it and installed it in the gripshift how it looked like it was supposed to be. everything looked good, so i closed up the gripshift and tightened the set-screw. i then greased the cable allitle then ran it through the housing. i ran it down the tube of the bicycle and through the bottom bracket guider. i then greased it again and ran it through the housing closest to the rear derailler. i put the shifter in the gear that made the cable the loosest and then pulled the cable tight and tightened the clamping bolt.
when i go to shift the cable into a different gear, when starting in gear 7, it is hard to pull and will not shift. when i am pedeling it shifts but skips 3 gears and goes into gear 3. it feels almost as if the cable is to tight, but when i loosen the cable it dangles off the bike becouse of how loose it is. the grip shift says saram on it but the derailler is shimano.
i am just wondering if this is becouse of the way i installed the cable or becouse a parts issue.
i will be happy to give any ifo on the bike as requested.
thank you in advance.
#2
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
First things first and that's compatibility of the lever and RD. Sram makes twist-grips for Sram RD's and Shimano RDs, but they're not the same. The ones for Sram usually have numbers like 7.0, 9.0, X.0 etc., the ones for Shimano have names like Comp, Rocket, etc. So step one is checking that you have a shifter that matches the RD.
The next stem is to check for smooth cable movement. Start by shifting to high gear and, while pedaling, pulling the bare wire away from the frame at the down tube as if drawing a bow. Watch the action of RD and see if it moves smoothly. Shift to low gear this way, and hold it there, while you use the twist grip to shift one gear at a time. You should feel it drawing your hand back smoothly with each click. If you feel the cable isn't moving in either of the above tests, you either have worn or sticky housings, or maybe the wire it trapped under something. Now it's just a bit of detective work.
The next stem is to check for smooth cable movement. Start by shifting to high gear and, while pedaling, pulling the bare wire away from the frame at the down tube as if drawing a bow. Watch the action of RD and see if it moves smoothly. Shift to low gear this way, and hold it there, while you use the twist grip to shift one gear at a time. You should feel it drawing your hand back smoothly with each click. If you feel the cable isn't moving in either of the above tests, you either have worn or sticky housings, or maybe the wire it trapped under something. Now it's just a bit of detective work.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 165
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From: souther NH
Bikes: 2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc 29er, 2009 DK Aura
i havnt any clue what an RD is. im sorry but i am not very skilled in drive trains. i have stayed with single speed for almost forever becouse a friend said drivetrains cuase headaches. i have spent the last hour trying to figure this out. i am not quite sure what you meen by pull it like a bow. the gears dont shift or "turn" at all becouse the cable apears to be tight. im sorry but i have alot of learning to do.
#4
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
RD is shorthand for rear derailleur, because others and I are frugal with our keystrokes.
RD= rear derailleur, also know as Mech in England and Austrailia
FD = front derailleur
Shifters, levers, twisters, brifters etc are the shift levers or whatever.
You'll see more shorthand, and will pick it up as you go along.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#5
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Joined: Nov 2010
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From: souther NH
Bikes: 2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc 29er, 2009 DK Aura
ok thank you. i will try to diagnose the problem with your tips. i had no idea running a cable could be this complicated as it seems almost barbaric when you think about the process it goes through to shift.
#6
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,327
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From: Roswell, GA
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Likesbikes36: Perhaps you did not replace the cable correctly; many of them need the cable to make a full wrap around the inner mechanism before exiting into the cable housing. Take a look at this video and see if you got it right: https://bicycletutor.com/grip-shift-cable/
Also you mentioned that you greased the cable; maybe the grease is too viscous and is not allowing the cable to move freely. Try flushing out the cable housings with WD-40 or something similar an try some light oil instead. You may not need any lubricant at all as modern cables and housings have slippery plastic coatings.
When you have the cable installed properly and moving freely, follow this procedure to adjust your derailleur; go from start to finish and do not omit any steps.
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...nts-derailleur
Also you mentioned that you greased the cable; maybe the grease is too viscous and is not allowing the cable to move freely. Try flushing out the cable housings with WD-40 or something similar an try some light oil instead. You may not need any lubricant at all as modern cables and housings have slippery plastic coatings.
When you have the cable installed properly and moving freely, follow this procedure to adjust your derailleur; go from start to finish and do not omit any steps.
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...nts-derailleur
#7
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Melbourne, Oz
Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231
#8
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 165
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From: souther NH
Bikes: 2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc 29er, 2009 DK Aura
i found the problem! it was a broken piece of plastic(not even 2 centimeters long) in the grip shift. i was so excited to fix it. but allass now the cable is to short..... gunna have to wait a day or two to get a new one when i have time. But thank you all for your help.
also, to kimmo, it is quite elegant actually. but explaining it dosnt seem so much.
also, to kimmo, it is quite elegant actually. but explaining it dosnt seem so much.
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