Headset replacement best practice?
01-26-11 | 03:25 PM
#1
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From: Fredericksburg, Va
Bikes: ? Proteous, '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, 'Litespeed Catalyst'94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster
Headset replacement best practice?
I am thinking of replacing the stock headset on my '97 RockHopper as an upgrade to a suspension fork. The instrucitons include all the neccessary steps for a new install, facing etc.
Is it good practice to do all that or is it low risk simply to remove the old parts and replace with the new?
Is it good practice to do all that or is it low risk simply to remove the old parts and replace with the new?
01-26-11 | 06:49 PM
#4
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From: Fredericksburg, Va
Bikes: ? Proteous, '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, 'Litespeed Catalyst'94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster
Thanks for the responses. I was going to check ID/OD but co-planarity is problematic as well as the CR surface normalcy to the steerer axis. I assume .002" interfernece is OK for the press fit interfaces.
01-26-11 | 08:33 PM
#5
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
If you can't trust a metal fabricator to cut a tube square, what part of frame building would you trust him with?
Paint or powder coat, on the other hand, is another story. I'd want to be sure that's been removed from the mateing surfaces.
Paint or powder coat, on the other hand, is another story. I'd want to be sure that's been removed from the mateing surfaces.
01-26-11 | 08:48 PM
#6
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
If the original headset fit and worked properly, it's reasonable to assume the frame and fork were properly prepared. Machining it anew can't make right righter, but there is the potential to screw it up.
Best practice is to follow rule number one -- "don't fix what isn't broke.
As long as the new headset is the same standard as the original, ie ISO vs. JIS, it's a straightforward, pop out and replace.
Best practice is to follow rule number one -- "don't fix what isn't broke.
As long as the new headset is the same standard as the original, ie ISO vs. JIS, it's a straightforward, pop out and replace.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
01-27-11 | 01:04 PM
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
If the original headset fit and worked properly, it's reasonable to assume the frame and fork were properly prepared. Machining it anew can't make right righter, but there is the potential to screw it up.
Best practice is to follow rule number one -- "don't fix what isn't broke.
As long as the new headset is the same standard as the original, ie ISO vs. JIS, it's a straightforward, pop out and replace.
Best practice is to follow rule number one -- "don't fix what isn't broke.
As long as the new headset is the same standard as the original, ie ISO vs. JIS, it's a straightforward, pop out and replace.
Since this is a 1-1/8" threadless headset, the ISO/JIS difference isn't an issue as all 1-1/8" press-in cups and crown races are made to the same standard.
01-27-11 | 04:39 PM
#11
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From: Boise, ID.
In replacing the headset on my rockhopper (older model, threadless 1" solid fork), I had to have the fork crown faced by my LBS. It was the only part of the head set (Cane Creek) that I couldn't install myself.
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