help with side pull brake
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
help with side pull brake
hi all. i just installed a new side-pull front brake on my fixer-upper bicycle. however, i am having some difficulty with it. i am using a Dia-Comp lever, which is attached to a bull-horn style headset. my problem is that it takes a lot of pulling to engage the brake and have the brake pads connect to the wheel. so much so that the brake lever hits the handle bar without both pads making contact to the wheel. as a result, a non-functioning front brake.
what is the best way to resolve this issue? should i be trying a different style of brake? i need something that does not require a lot of "pulling distance" in order to press into the braking surface of the wheel. thank you in advance
what is the best way to resolve this issue? should i be trying a different style of brake? i need something that does not require a lot of "pulling distance" in order to press into the braking surface of the wheel. thank you in advance
#2
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 5
From: Somewhere Between The Beginning And The End
Have you adjusted the brakes correctly, and is the release closed? Take a good look at this video....
https://bicycletutor.com/sidepull-caliper-brakes/
https://bicycletutor.com/sidepull-caliper-brakes/
#5
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
I assume you're taking up the cable slack and have minimum clearance between the shoes and rim when open. If not it's a simple matter of pulling up cable, while holding the shoes close to the rim.
Otherwise you probably mixed generations or brands of levers and calipers.
For years most brakes had similar leverage factors and likewise most of levers, so mixing was rarely an issue. Today, with old side pulls, dual pivot modern side pulls, cantis, and V-brakes, the relative movement of the shoes for a given amount of cable movement is all over the boards.
You've identified your problem correctly, you need either more responsive calipers, or a lever that pulls more cable. It's just a matter of asking about compatibility and matching both elements.
Otherwise you probably mixed generations or brands of levers and calipers.
For years most brakes had similar leverage factors and likewise most of levers, so mixing was rarely an issue. Today, with old side pulls, dual pivot modern side pulls, cantis, and V-brakes, the relative movement of the shoes for a given amount of cable movement is all over the boards.
You've identified your problem correctly, you need either more responsive calipers, or a lever that pulls more cable. It's just a matter of asking about compatibility and matching both elements.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Have you adjusted the brakes correctly, and is the release closed? Take a good look at this video....
https://bicycletutor.com/sidepull-caliper-brakes/
https://bicycletutor.com/sidepull-caliper-brakes/
i had seen this video before, but taking your advice, i took a good look at it again, and i found my problem. my caliper does not have a quick release on it, but it does have a hollow screw (?) that the cable passes through and a nut. i found that by increasing the distance between the nut and the top of this hollow screw (by backing the screw out and securing it in place with the nut), i could take up even more slack and have the lever engage the cable more effectively. after some adjustments, my brake pads now engage the rim with a lot more force.
thank you for all of your advice. one more question though: are there different levers that can pull more cable than others? thank you all again.
#7
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 5
From: Somewhere Between The Beginning And The End
Sounds like you still need to take slack out of the cable....... (THE HOLLOW SCREW IS THE BARREL ADJUSTER).....
Screw the barrel adjuster all the way back in then back it out two or three turns, and break the cable pinch bolt loose. Now squeeze the two brake pads together so they both contact the rim while at the same time pulling all the slack cable through the pinch bolt and tighten. At this point the pads should be touching the rim or very close. Now you can turn the barrel adjuster in to move the pads away from the rim and get a good brake adjustment.
Screw the barrel adjuster all the way back in then back it out two or three turns, and break the cable pinch bolt loose. Now squeeze the two brake pads together so they both contact the rim while at the same time pulling all the slack cable through the pinch bolt and tighten. At this point the pads should be touching the rim or very close. Now you can turn the barrel adjuster in to move the pads away from the rim and get a good brake adjustment.
#8
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 649
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
delicmaro
General Cycling Discussion
5
04-26-18 09:50 AM
detourer
Bicycle Mechanics
3
05-27-13 07:20 AM





