Headset torque question

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02-14-11 | 12:59 PM
  #1  
So I've installed my computer mount under the headset cap (see pic). I torqued to 10 in-lbs, and everything seems secure and the bars rotate fine. Are there any torque considerations or other issues to consider when adding a mount like this under the cap? The mount is about 1mm.

Thanks.

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02-14-11 | 01:35 PM
  #2  
Never seen a torque specified for a headset
Quote: So I've installed my computer mount under the headset cap (see pic). I torqued to 10 in-lbs, and everything seems secure and the bars rotate fine. Are there any torque considerations or other issues to consider when adding a mount like this under the cap? The mount is about 1mm.

Thanks.

Typically the instructions for headset preload will read along the lines of:

[With the stem bolts still loose, tighten the compression bolt to preload the bearings.Apply only enough torque to remove all play from the headset while ensuring that it still rotates freely.

With the stem aligned with the fork, secure the stem to the steering tube and LOCK IN THE BEARING PRELOAD by tightening the stem clamping bolts. These should be tightened to the recommendations of the stem manufacturer.]

So unless you loosened the stem clamping bolts (highly unlikely) during that installation - you haven`t affected your bearing preload at all. The preload was locked in by the steering stem clamping bolts. Everything is good to go!
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02-14-11 | 01:42 PM
  #3  
Quote: Typically the instructions for headset preload will read along the lines of:

[With the stem bolts still loose, tighten the compression bolt to preload the bearings.Apply only enough torque to remove all play from the headset while ensuring that it still rotates freely.

With the stem aligned with the fork, secure the stem to the steering tube and LOCK IN THE BEARING PRELOAD by tightening the stem clamping bolts. These should be tightened to the recommendations of the stem manufacturer.]

So unless you loosened the stem clamping bolts (highly unlikely) during that installation - you haven`t affected your bearing preload at all. The preload was locked in by the steering stem clamping bolts. Everything is good to go!
+1 on the small spacer having no effect. However, I've installed several headsets (FSA and Chris King in particular) where the manufacturer's installation sheet gives a particular top bolt pre-load torque recommendation of from 8 to 20 inch-pounds, and not "just remove all play".
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02-14-11 | 01:44 PM
  #4  
Quote: Typically the instructions for headset preload will read along the lines of:

[With the stem bolts still loose, tighten the compression bolt to preload the bearings.Apply only enough torque to remove all play from the headset while ensuring that it still rotates freely.

With the stem aligned with the fork, secure the stem to the steering tube and LOCK IN THE BEARING PRELOAD by tightening the stem clamping bolts. These should be tightened to the recommendations of the stem manufacturer.]

So unless you loosened the stem clamping bolts (highly unlikely) during that installation - you haven`t affected your bearing preload at all. The preload was locked in by the steering stem clamping bolts. Everything is good to go!
Actually, this was a new stem install, so I tightened the headset before tightening the stem clamping bolts. Thanks.
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02-14-11 | 03:07 PM
  #5  
Looks like you`ve had a chance to play with more than I have
Quote: +1 on the small spacer having no effect. However, I've installed several headsets (FSA and Chris King in particular) where the manufacturer's installation sheet gives a particular top bolt pre-load torque recommendation of from 8 to 20 inch-pounds, and not "just remove all play".
Personaly I`ve worked with mostly FSA and Cane Creek threadless headsets myself - Cris King is one still outside my experience.

But how do you feel about that torque range spec yourself? 8 to 20 is a HUGE range! In fact the max is more than double the min - so what would be the determining factor in deciding how much is ideal?
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02-14-11 | 04:17 PM
  #6  
The correct torque is minimum to remove all play. It's obvious. There's nothing special in any of the FSA or CK headset designs that would lead you to believe otherwise is correct.
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02-14-11 | 04:53 PM
  #7  
Chris Kings bearing cap has a O ring in it and this part makes it more tough to slide the cap down the steerer tube than most other manufacturers bearing caps. Also some headset spacers and stems have tight tolerance. So the range of torque needed varies depending on what combo of headset/stem/spacers/steerer tube used. Knowing and experiencing how much force to apply to the screw comes in handy but usually tightening the bearing cap enough to eliminate all headset play is tight enough.
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02-14-11 | 07:12 PM
  #8  
Quote: Personaly I`ve worked with mostly FSA and Cane Creek threadless headsets myself - Cris King is one still outside my experience.

But how do you feel about that torque range spec yourself? 8 to 20 is a HUGE range! In fact the max is more than double the min - so what would be the determining factor in deciding how much is ideal?
That 8 to 20 inch-pound value wasn't meant as the range from one maker. However, to confirm the numbers rather than just going from memory, I just reread the installation sheets I have.

Chris King recommends 4-10 inch-pounds with a maximum of 15 inch-pounds so that's range of almost 4:1.

FSA recommends minimum of 105 inch-pounds (yes 105 minimum!!) to tighten the top cap of it's Conix compression plug. Personally, I've never come close to that torque when adjusting mine.

Cane Creek does just say to tighten the top cap until all play is gone but gives no torque spec.
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