Bent fork
#2
Bianchi Goddess


Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
No No Yes.
what kind of steel if that fork made from? I would not ride that bike with that fork, aside from the fact that it could break anytime it will not handle well.
what kind of steel if that fork made from? I would not ride that bike with that fork, aside from the fact that it could break anytime it will not handle well.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#3
That must have been a heck of a pothole!
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Jeff Wills
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Jeff Wills
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#4
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
For safety reasons steel forks have overbuilt steerers made of reasonably malleable steel grades and tempers. I've seen much more serious bends survive and - before fear of lawsuit became an issue - these were routinely straightened and ridden for years afterward.
Bent forks were routinely straightened or ridden as is for decades. Everyone of my generation either rode or knew someone riding a straightened or custom-made short-wheelbase bicycle. But these days that's out of fashion, because in the event of any kind of subsequent failure no shop or professional would want to face a jury in a civil suit. If it were my bike, I'd pull it back and ride it after removing and inspecting the steerer for any cracks.
As for as riding it as it is, the frame clearance is less than I'd like, so I'd first test by lightly taping a piece of cardboard to the downtube thick enough to fill about half the gap at the nearest point. Then ride it on a fairly bumpy course to see if the fork flexes enough to touch. If not, you have the added thickness of the cardboard as a safety margin.
The real issue is toe clearance, especially if you have big feet. Make sure your toes cannot touch the tire at the nearest point.
BTW- if the fork is carbon or alloy it's toast, because those are far less forgiving than steel is.
Bent forks were routinely straightened or ridden as is for decades. Everyone of my generation either rode or knew someone riding a straightened or custom-made short-wheelbase bicycle. But these days that's out of fashion, because in the event of any kind of subsequent failure no shop or professional would want to face a jury in a civil suit. If it were my bike, I'd pull it back and ride it after removing and inspecting the steerer for any cracks.
As for as riding it as it is, the frame clearance is less than I'd like, so I'd first test by lightly taping a piece of cardboard to the downtube thick enough to fill about half the gap at the nearest point. Then ride it on a fairly bumpy course to see if the fork flexes enough to touch. If not, you have the added thickness of the cardboard as a safety margin.
The real issue is toe clearance, especially if you have big feet. Make sure your toes cannot touch the tire at the nearest point.
BTW- if the fork is carbon or alloy it's toast, because those are far less forgiving than steel is.
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FB
Chain-L site
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 140
Likes: 22
The wheel is fine, the fork is apparently much less sturdy. I think it's aluminum, not steel. And as for the toe clearance, my toes touch all the time when I'm approaching a red light, just one of the downsides of riding a fixed gear, that happened before the fork got bent.
#8
it's hard to tell for certain from the picture but it looks like the bend is where the steerer enters the headset and that's probably not good.
Can you feel it in your headset at all when you turn the bike? it's possible the headset is toast after a knock like that. you'd hear it (or more likely feel it) in the headset bearings as you steer the bike.
Can you feel it in your headset at all when you turn the bike? it's possible the headset is toast after a knock like that. you'd hear it (or more likely feel it) in the headset bearings as you steer the bike.
#9
Apparently a cromoly fork
At least thats what the Mercier website indicates.
But I`d suggest replacing it with another from Mercier - just visit your dealer. At the same time you should ask for an inspection to confirm (or not) that nothing else is outta whck.
Looks like the steering tube itself is bent and if thats the case, the damage is extremely localized. When metal is forced past its yield point, its weaker, and straightening it will actually be doing more damage.
Considering the time it`ll take to set up a gig and straighten that one, it probably won`t be much more expensive to buy a new one. I expect less than $100.
But I`d suggest replacing it with another from Mercier - just visit your dealer. At the same time you should ask for an inspection to confirm (or not) that nothing else is outta whck.
Looks like the steering tube itself is bent and if thats the case, the damage is extremely localized. When metal is forced past its yield point, its weaker, and straightening it will actually be doing more damage.
Considering the time it`ll take to set up a gig and straighten that one, it probably won`t be much more expensive to buy a new one. I expect less than $100.







