Quick and dirty restoration
02-12-11, 11:05 AM
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Quick and dirty restoration
I just picked up an old sears 3 speed from Craigslist. Mechanically it seems to be in good shape but it has quite a bit of rust. I'm hoping for some restoration tips. I was planning on trying to remove the rust and paint over the rusted areas. I was thinking of using my dremel or CLR and steel wool for rust removal and then just rattle can paint. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I know people like the OA bath, but that requires taking the whole thing apart and I was hoping to minimize effort and dis assembly required. Also any paint alternatives to just good spray paint? I'm planning on using this for my 1 mile trip to the train every day and it will spend a lot of time locked up outside, so I'm not trying to make this thing sparkle, just not rust away or get rust marks all over my work pants.
PS I thought I posted this in the vintage section, but I either forgot to submit or it got deleted bc it was in the wrong area. Hopefully this is the right place to post.
PS I thought I posted this in the vintage section, but I either forgot to submit or it got deleted bc it was in the wrong area. Hopefully this is the right place to post.
02-12-11, 11:43 AM
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There are several spray-on products that convert rust to an inert material. These are called rust converters and Rust-Oleum is probably the easiest to find. Prep the rust, spray on the converter, paint.
02-12-11, 01:43 PM
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As you said, down and dirty. Don't worry about getting down to bare metal, just remove the rust and blend to the painted areas.
I wouldn't use a chemical like CLR or rustoleum, since it'll also attack the paint on the good areas expanding the work area. My favorite item for this kind of work are abrasive Scotch Brite (off brand analogs are fine) pads which come in a variety of grits and do a nice job.
Then use your favorite spray in multiple thin coats so it doesn't sag or get "orange peel" If you're good with masking tape, and work carefully you don't have to do much dis-assembly. You can even leave cranks on by sliding plastic bags over them and taping them in place.
I wouldn't use a chemical like CLR or rustoleum, since it'll also attack the paint on the good areas expanding the work area. My favorite item for this kind of work are abrasive Scotch Brite (off brand analogs are fine) pads which come in a variety of grits and do a nice job.
Then use your favorite spray in multiple thin coats so it doesn't sag or get "orange peel" If you're good with masking tape, and work carefully you don't have to do much dis-assembly. You can even leave cranks on by sliding plastic bags over them and taping them in place.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
02-13-11, 12:22 AM
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steel wool, rubbing/polishing compound help too, clear coat paint the alumimum parts after shining to prevent dulling/oxidation
02-24-11, 10:55 PM
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wire brush drill attachment.
