rustybucket

I have a pair of Open Pros that were taco'd in an accident with a car, I want to buy new open pro rims and spokes and build up some new wheels with the old Ultegra hubs.
I bought the wheels new and they were already built. I have removed some spokes from the damaged wheels and measured them and they are different sizes to what the online spoke length calculators recommend.
Can someone please tell if I am measuring from the correct part of the spoke?
The spoke sizes I have when measuring from here are front 294mm, rear left 293 and rear right 291mm.
Online calculators recommend Front 296mm, rear left 296mm and rear right 294mm.
What size should I get?
Open Pro rims on Ultegra 6600 hubs.
Thanks

rogerstg

Not enough info. Number of spokes? lacing pattern?

mrrabbit 

ERD = 602 (Screwdriver flat of nipple)
32H
3X

295.42 @ 295.00

294.63 @ 294.00
292.86 @ 292.00

Will result after final tension and dish with spokes coming to just a hair under the screwdriver flat of standard nipples.

=8-)

The calculators you are using are aiming for the top of the nipple - that's why you are seeing longer lengths.

https://www.mrrabbit.net/wheelsbyflemingapplications.php

Is where mine is...grab the spreadsheet after scrolling part way down...

=8-)

1nterceptor

These folks will send you the correct length after telling
them what hub and rim you'll be using. They only sell
double butted Wheelsmith spokes.

https://peterwhitecycles.com/spokes.asp

Model Wheelsmith DB14, 14-16 gauge Wheelsmith DB14, 14-16 gauge (black) Wheelsmith XL14, 14-17 gauge Wheelsmith DH13, 13-14 gauge

rustybucket

Thank you mrrabbit that spreadsheet is awesome. Must have taken a lot of time. I feel confident in buying the same size spokes that were in my original wheels.

FBinNY 

Yes, you measured correctly from the inside of the elbow (not on-center) to the end.

IMO an actual built wheel trumps a calculated spoke length. Since you're using the same rims, measure the spokes as per your picture, and adjust if you wish according to how high the spokes reach into the nipples. Ideal is between the bottom of the screwdriver slot, and the you of the nipple, so add or subtract from the existing spokes to achieve that.

davidad

If they are not kinked you can reuse the spokes. Make note of which way they were installed and use that on the new rims.

rustybucket

I was not sure if I could re-use them or not. There are some on the rear that are bent from where the car bumper hit me. The rear wheel is really bent, but I think I could use a lot of the spokes from the front wheel.

Chris_W

Spokes can handle bending, it's just kinking that they don't like. I expect you can re-use most of your spokes.

davidad

You have to bend them to lace a wheel. A kink on the other hand is a stress riser and the point where a spoke will break.

rustybucket

If a rim is really bent in an accident, doesn't that put a lot of stress on the spokes, pulling them to one side? Making them weaker?

mrrabbit 

Spokes tension-wise are rated way beyond what most rims and hubs can handle. It's excessive flex at a given point allowed due to under tensioning, nasty single point kinking, and nasty cutting scrapes that typically do 'em in.

I'd worry more about your rim in this case...it's a very lightweight racing clincher to begin with. Drop by a shop and get a second opinion if you are concerned, and/or post a pic here.

=8-)