Tektro Mini-V (926A) Brake Pull Requirement?
#1
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Tektro Mini-V (926A) Brake Pull Requirement?
I'm looking at a set of Tektro Mini-V model 926A brakes for use on a road bike and get conflicting info on what cable pull brake levers they require. Some sources say they work with standard road/STI/Ergo levers and other say they require "Long Pull" V-brake levers.
Can anyone with real experience or knowledge tell me what lever type they require?
Can anyone with real experience or knowledge tell me what lever type they require?
#3
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
I've never been able to get them to work to my satisfaction with ordinary road brake levers. If I set the pads close enough so the brake levers don't bottom out I can't open the caliper to change the wheel.
One solution is to use a noodle that has a barrel adjuster and readjust the cable pull for every wheel change. Another is to clip the nose of the noodle so it slips out more easily.
One solution is to use a noodle that has a barrel adjuster and readjust the cable pull for every wheel change. Another is to clip the nose of the noodle so it slips out more easily.
#4
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From: Portland, OR
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I'm using them with Tektro RL340 levers (standard road pull). The 926A's feel feel like they are right between a long pull and road pull brake. I'm able to get good actuation with at least 2-3mm of clearance between pad and rim surface, but it not as a good as a road brake lever with road brakes. They require just a tad more pull.
#5
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Thanks for all of the feedback. I'd be using them with Tektro's R200 road levers which have a qr built into the lever itself so that should reduce the wheel removal problem.
Another few questions:
1. How is the braking action?
2. Are they quiet (i.e. no squealing)?
3. Could I fit brake pad holders with replaceable pads in place of the OEM fixed shoes?
Another few questions:
1. How is the braking action?
2. Are they quiet (i.e. no squealing)?
3. Could I fit brake pad holders with replaceable pads in place of the OEM fixed shoes?
#6
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From: Portland, OR
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They eliminated the squealing and fork shudder I was getting with cantilevers and they are plenty powerful. They feel like a v-brake. I'm on flat ground so I can't comment on their descending performance.
I see no reason why road brake cartridges or v-brake cartridges wouldn't fit.
I see no reason why road brake cartridges or v-brake cartridges wouldn't fit.
#7
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From: boston, ma
I've never been able to get them to work to my satisfaction with ordinary road brake levers. If I set the pads close enough so the brake levers don't bottom out I can't open the caliper to change the wheel.
One solution is to use a noodle that has a barrel adjuster and readjust the cable pull for every wheel change. Another is to clip the nose of the noodle so it slips out more easily.
One solution is to use a noodle that has a barrel adjuster and readjust the cable pull for every wheel change. Another is to clip the nose of the noodle so it slips out more easily.
#9
They work pretty good with STI/road levers, which is what/why many cyclocrossers in Germany are using.
The setup was very easy, even without having barrel adjusters in the levers or noodles. Braking action has reasonable modulation and power even with the stock brake shoes, but yes, the pads need to be set very close to the rim.
I recently fitted one on a rigid steel mtb fork for an experience and they squealed like a pig, with some fork shudder, but I think it was really the rim's fault (the rim was new, with the braking surface still painted), not having to do with the brake or fork.
Any kind of V-brake shoe fits them, I'm sure, although I've yet to replace them.
The setup was very easy, even without having barrel adjusters in the levers or noodles. Braking action has reasonable modulation and power even with the stock brake shoes, but yes, the pads need to be set very close to the rim.
I recently fitted one on a rigid steel mtb fork for an experience and they squealed like a pig, with some fork shudder, but I think it was really the rim's fault (the rim was new, with the braking surface still painted), not having to do with the brake or fork.
Any kind of V-brake shoe fits them, I'm sure, although I've yet to replace them.
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specialmonkey
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03-29-19 08:41 PM





