Going form a triple chainring to a double
04-09-11 | 11:55 AM
#1
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From: West Palm Beach, Fl
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Going form a triple chainring to a double
Hello,
My bike come originally with a triple chainring crank. Could I change to a double chainring crank without doing to much modifying?
As far as modifying though, I am guessing I will have to buy a new bottom bracket (one that will work with the new crank that I get) and do some adjusting to the front derailleur?
Correct me if I am wrong....
My bike come originally with a triple chainring crank. Could I change to a double chainring crank without doing to much modifying?
As far as modifying though, I am guessing I will have to buy a new bottom bracket (one that will work with the new crank that I get) and do some adjusting to the front derailleur?
Correct me if I am wrong....
04-09-11 | 12:07 PM
#2
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Unless there's an issue of chainring selection, you can simply remove the third chainring. Ideally you'd want to move the crank inboard by about 3mm to correct the chainline difference (assumes it was right in the first place), but in many cases it isn't necessary.
If you do replace the crank, you may or may not need to replace the bottom bracket or spindle depending on what the new crank calls for.
If you do replace the crank, you may or may not need to replace the bottom bracket or spindle depending on what the new crank calls for.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
04-09-11 | 12:53 PM
#3
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 45
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From: West Palm Beach, Fl
Bikes: Working on it...
Unless there's an issue of chainring selection, you can simply remove the third chainring. Ideally you'd want to move the crank inboard by about 3mm to correct the chainline difference (assumes it was right in the first place), but in many cases it isn't necessary.
If you do replace the crank, you may or may not need to replace the bottom bracket or spindle depending on what the new crank calls for.
If you do replace the crank, you may or may not need to replace the bottom bracket or spindle depending on what the new crank calls for.
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