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Brand new Sram Force RD having issues, help?

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Brand new Sram Force RD having issues, help?

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Old 05-06-11 | 07:58 PM
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Brand new Sram Force RD having issues, help?

Hey guys.

I just got my bike in from Competitive Cyclist today. It's got a 2011 Force build on it.

The RD Barrel adjuster assumbly was basically broken during shipping, so I got that replaced at my LBS.
Now I notice there's something else wrong.

If I'm in the big ring up front, as soon as I shift into the 21 or larger rear cog, the chain jumps up off the lower jockey pulley and kinda rides on top of it between it's teeth and the RD Cage.

wtf?

I've never seen this before, and I'm new to Doubles and SRAM. I know the Force group should be able to use the entire rear range while in the big up front. Ignoring that, but I've still got two more cogs in the rear to go to.

Help me out, please?
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Old 05-06-11 | 10:00 PM
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Go to the bike shop, tell them how you regret not supporting them and that you've learned your lesson about buying online?
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Old 05-06-11 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 98TJ
Go to the bike shop, tell them how you regret not supporting them and that you've learned your lesson about buying online?
I don't regret my decision buying online one bit. I got the exact bike I wanted, with one level higher gruppo, better saddle, reduced price on pedals, and faster than they could've gotten it to me (They don't stock what I wanted) for LESS money. The literal worst case scenario is I have to buy a new RD (Ignoring why I never would have to do that,) and Amazon could get me one of those in two days.

I've definitely debated online vs in store before, but right now, I just need help getting my RD sorted out. If you have any advice on that, feel free. Otherwise..

And EDIT to say that I DID buy from a local bike shop, I just don't happen to LIVE near it.
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Old 05-06-11 | 10:23 PM
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Ignoring the polemics of the online vs. LBS debate, I suspect that whatever bent or broke the adjuster in transit also bent the RD hanger putting a bit of twist into the mounting.

Your call whether to buy a tool to check and/or straighten the hanger or pay the local shop to do this job.
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Old 05-06-11 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
Ignoring the polemics of the online vs. LBS debate, I suspect that whatever bent or broke the adjuster in transit also bent the RD hanger putting a bit of twist into the mounting.

Your call whether to buy a tool to check and/or straighten the hanger or pay the local shop to do this job.
Dumb question, but:

The bike has carbon dropouts, can they be straightened, or do they need to be replaced?
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Old 05-06-11 | 10:36 PM
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Not the drop outs, but the aluminum hanger that's there to bend before the frame or derailer is damaged. Any shop will have an alignment tool to check it and straighten it.

Last edited by jediphobic; 05-06-11 at 10:40 PM. Reason: Sorry, dumb post, I fixed it
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Old 05-06-11 | 10:39 PM
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it should have a replaceable derailleur hanger.they are made out of alu and made to break/ bend if you crash to protect your frame. its the metal hook looking thing that connects the RD to the drop out. most new bikes come with an extra one. you can bend the one you have now or replace with a new one if you have it.
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Old 05-06-11 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jediphobic
Not the drop outs, but the aluminum hanger that's there to bend before the frame or derailer is damaged. Any shop will have an alignment tool to check it and straighten it.
Gotcha, thanks. My bike repair knowledge is limited to adjusting limit screws and barrel adjusters.
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Old 05-06-11 | 11:12 PM
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spend the $50 and buy the park hanger alignment tool, or use the search feature to learn how to use a front wheel
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