27 1 1/4 to 700c
#1
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27 1 1/4 to 700c
Is it possible to convert?
I know that the 700c is smaller and i need like 4mm for my brakes to adjust down to reach.... and yes i dont have that problem because atm my brakes are set up to the highest limit so i can definately move it done
Is it possible to switch the rear tire? My bike's a 10 speed so i know the width of the rear might be smaller?
Is there smaller hubs for 700c wheels? and since i originally have 5 gears on the rear, would that mean i would probably have to find a 700c wheel with the same size hub as my current wheel and just put on my 5 speed cassette on it? would that work? or is there maybe a possibility i can fit in more gears?
btw i'm not looking to bend my frame....
on a side note, i work at a bike shop so i can perform anything by myself
and please dont direct me to buy a new frame because i just want to know if theres a way i can just upgrade
I know that the 700c is smaller and i need like 4mm for my brakes to adjust down to reach.... and yes i dont have that problem because atm my brakes are set up to the highest limit so i can definately move it done
Is it possible to switch the rear tire? My bike's a 10 speed so i know the width of the rear might be smaller?
Is there smaller hubs for 700c wheels? and since i originally have 5 gears on the rear, would that mean i would probably have to find a 700c wheel with the same size hub as my current wheel and just put on my 5 speed cassette on it? would that work? or is there maybe a possibility i can fit in more gears?
btw i'm not looking to bend my frame....
on a side note, i work at a bike shop so i can perform anything by myself
and please dont direct me to buy a new frame because i just want to know if theres a way i can just upgrade
#2
Yes, moving your brake pads down 4mm is the only hurdle to clear. Obviously you'll need new tires, which I assume is why you're doing the switch.
As for the rear spacing, I assume it's spaced at 120mm with a 5 speed rear. But measure it to be sure: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sp-ss.html#spacing If you don't want to bend the frame you'll need a new wheel with the same spacing. Fortunately, on most wheels with thread on freewheels you can easily space the hub out to whatever you want. If it's quick release, you might have to cut the axle short if you're spacing it down from 126mm or 130mm.
Er... I hope you're new there. Much to learn, you have.
As for the rear spacing, I assume it's spaced at 120mm with a 5 speed rear. But measure it to be sure: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sp-ss.html#spacing If you don't want to bend the frame you'll need a new wheel with the same spacing. Fortunately, on most wheels with thread on freewheels you can easily space the hub out to whatever you want. If it's quick release, you might have to cut the axle short if you're spacing it down from 126mm or 130mm.
Er... I hope you're new there. Much to learn, you have.
#3
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
The brake issue is the only material one to consider besides cost. Since that's not a hurdle, you can go ahead and make the change. Probably the lowest cost option is to outright both wheels, but if you cannot get a stock 700c replacement for the rear, you have a choice.
You could build a new wheel on your hub, or a new comparable one, or you could spread the frame (steel only) to accommodate a wider hub, and possibly upgrade to more speeds. Now it can get complicated because more gears can introduce new issues if derailleur compatibility (if index).
This is a fairly costly switch for an older bike, so I suggest you explore all the options and costs, and decide if it's worth it for the bike. If you need a new wheel anyway it might make sense, but if your 27" wheels are OK, you might want to leave things as they are and use the dough to start saving for something nicer.
You could build a new wheel on your hub, or a new comparable one, or you could spread the frame (steel only) to accommodate a wider hub, and possibly upgrade to more speeds. Now it can get complicated because more gears can introduce new issues if derailleur compatibility (if index).
This is a fairly costly switch for an older bike, so I suggest you explore all the options and costs, and decide if it's worth it for the bike. If you need a new wheel anyway it might make sense, but if your 27" wheels are OK, you might want to leave things as they are and use the dough to start saving for something nicer.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#4
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i'm not really experienced with all the technical stuff, but regardless, i get the job done.....
and yes my rims are kinda bad, like theres a bit of rust on the spokes and it kinda fused it with the nipple so i cant really true my rims 100% perfect
so if i find a wheel with a same hub or something or build one, i can just use my old 5 speed cassette?
and yes my rims are kinda bad, like theres a bit of rust on the spokes and it kinda fused it with the nipple so i cant really true my rims 100% perfect
so if i find a wheel with a same hub or something or build one, i can just use my old 5 speed cassette?
#5
But I'm almost certain you have a freewheel, not a cassette. The difference is important: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html
To use your original freewheel you just need a rear hub that accepts thread-on freewheels, not a (newer) freehub that accepts cassettes.
#7
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#8
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im talking about a hub that accepts freewheel and would work with 700c
another question: any hub would work right the rim right? as long as it fits my frame
#9
With freewheel hubs, you can aways just switch out the spacer on the drive side and cut the axel down.
I don't know exactly how wide of a rim you are wanting, but I just bought a rear wheel set (freewheel) at https://www.niagaracycle.com/s for $28. I was also switch from 27" X 1 1/8" to 700C and have a 12 speed Raleigh with a freewheel. I don't know how much you are wanting to spend, but I just bought my bike for $30 off craigslist and was trying to keep the whole project under $100 (so far success), and just wanting is for a cheap commuting road bike.
I don't know exactly how wide of a rim you are wanting, but I just bought a rear wheel set (freewheel) at https://www.niagaracycle.com/s for $28. I was also switch from 27" X 1 1/8" to 700C and have a 12 speed Raleigh with a freewheel. I don't know how much you are wanting to spend, but I just bought my bike for $30 off craigslist and was trying to keep the whole project under $100 (so far success), and just wanting is for a cheap commuting road bike.
#10
I have three older bikes and I've just kept them with 27" wheels, and since it's easy to buy 27" tires I haven't seen significant reason to switch. I even built new rear wheels (with 7-speed cassette hubs) for two of those bikes.
Not that a move to 700c is a problem, just that it's pretty easy to keep yourself in 27" gear so I'd question the reasons to change unless you want nicer/lighter wheels/tires on the bike.
Also, I've seen a number of bikes with 27" rims that have 124mm or 126mm rear spacing. They're not all 120mm.
Not that a move to 700c is a problem, just that it's pretty easy to keep yourself in 27" gear so I'd question the reasons to change unless you want nicer/lighter wheels/tires on the bike.
Also, I've seen a number of bikes with 27" rims that have 124mm or 126mm rear spacing. They're not all 120mm.
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"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
#11
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You may find machine built 700c rim freewheel hub wheel sets
from the suppliers to your LBS.
easy enough to swap spacers to make it work, 120, 126, etc.
120 dropouts will also get you in the realm of a 3 speed IG hub.
fitting a 3/32 wide (2mm) cog on the hub
would let you use the 2 chainrings in the crank,
and the old RD to take up the slack..
It doesn't need a cable attached to it, then..
center it over the 1 cog with the limit screws
from the suppliers to your LBS.
easy enough to swap spacers to make it work, 120, 126, etc.
120 dropouts will also get you in the realm of a 3 speed IG hub.
fitting a 3/32 wide (2mm) cog on the hub
would let you use the 2 chainrings in the crank,
and the old RD to take up the slack..
It doesn't need a cable attached to it, then..
center it over the 1 cog with the limit screws
#13
It won't hurt it, but it will be difficult to bend it out 10mm each time you install your wheel. If you want, you can cold set the frame to 130mm so it will permanently stay there.
Just get a freewheel hub and space it down to 120mm. It's really not that hard.
Just get a freewheel hub and space it down to 120mm. It's really not that hard.
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