Chain issues
07-07-11 | 10:56 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Kilo TT
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 741
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From: Salt Lake City
Chain issues
Hey guys, I posted over in the SS/FG forum but maybe you guys could give me some advice as well.
I dont know if I'm being stupid here or what, but I cant figure this out. Been assembling my new bike, running some IRD cranks, a surly cog, and a Wipperman chain - all 1/8. Cranks recommended a 110mm BB which I bought. When I'm spinning the bike, the chain will "jump" at random points. Chain tension seems fine and everything is tightened (lockring, cog), and this is a problem I have never had before. Dont wanna take it out on serious rides until I have this problem fixed.. any thoughts?
I dont know if I'm being stupid here or what, but I cant figure this out. Been assembling my new bike, running some IRD cranks, a surly cog, and a Wipperman chain - all 1/8. Cranks recommended a 110mm BB which I bought. When I'm spinning the bike, the chain will "jump" at random points. Chain tension seems fine and everything is tightened (lockring, cog), and this is a problem I have never had before. Dont wanna take it out on serious rides until I have this problem fixed.. any thoughts?
07-07-11 | 09:18 PM
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
A few things to check.
Concentricity of chainring and rear sprocket. When you turn the cranks the center of the lower loop shouldn't rise and fall more than 1/8". Also there still must be a bit of slack, at the tightest point.
As stated above there may be a stiff or otherwise damaged link, but it's hard to spot on a single speed. Push your rear wheel forward so there's significant slack in the chain. Pedal slowly both forward and back, looking of any link that doesn't engage, or disengage smoothly. If you find it it could be the chain, or the sprocket.
If all else fails, use a dry marker to color the tips of all the chainring's teeth. Tied the bike until you feel the problem a few times. Take off the chain and look for uneven wear of the black of the chainring teeth. If so, these are high, or possibly burred, and need th dressed with a file, or the chainring replaced.
Concentricity of chainring and rear sprocket. When you turn the cranks the center of the lower loop shouldn't rise and fall more than 1/8". Also there still must be a bit of slack, at the tightest point.
As stated above there may be a stiff or otherwise damaged link, but it's hard to spot on a single speed. Push your rear wheel forward so there's significant slack in the chain. Pedal slowly both forward and back, looking of any link that doesn't engage, or disengage smoothly. If you find it it could be the chain, or the sprocket.
If all else fails, use a dry marker to color the tips of all the chainring's teeth. Tied the bike until you feel the problem a few times. Take off the chain and look for uneven wear of the black of the chainring teeth. If so, these are high, or possibly burred, and need th dressed with a file, or the chainring replaced.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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