Front derailleur adjustment
07-23-11 | 07:49 AM
#1
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Joined: Aug 2010
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Front derailleur adjustment
Hello...
My front derailleur needs adjusted. It shifts fine going down (3rd to 2nd or 2nd to 1st) but when I try to shift up I have to play with the shifter to get the chain to catch the chain ring. Which part of the derailleur to I need to adjust? high/low screws or tension on bars?
My front derailleur needs adjusted. It shifts fine going down (3rd to 2nd or 2nd to 1st) but when I try to shift up I have to play with the shifter to get the chain to catch the chain ring. Which part of the derailleur to I need to adjust? high/low screws or tension on bars?
07-23-11 | 08:33 AM
#2
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Before you touch change any of the adjustments, make sure that you're not trying to shift under load. This is especially critical when changing from a smaller to bigger chainring. Pedal pressure keeps the top loop under tension and it needs slack to climb to a bigger ring. Try shifting with just enough pedal force to keep the chain moving, but not enough to make it tight.
If it does need adjusting, it will be the trim (aka cable tension) adjusting barrel, which may be at the levers, or inline on the cable. Tighter the cable to bring the FD out a bit more in each click, and try to find the best balance for good shifting in either direction. The limits shouldn't be touched if it used to shift fine, and now doesn't.
If it does need adjusting, it will be the trim (aka cable tension) adjusting barrel, which may be at the levers, or inline on the cable. Tighter the cable to bring the FD out a bit more in each click, and try to find the best balance for good shifting in either direction. The limits shouldn't be touched if it used to shift fine, and now doesn't.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
07-23-11 | 10:20 AM
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
I basically agree with FBinNY.
You need either a skosh more tension on the shift cable or your high limit screw needs to come out about 1/8 turn. Either way, don't over shoot it because you're almost there. If 1/4 turn on the barrel adjuster doesn't do it, try 1/8 turn on the limit screw.
You need either a skosh more tension on the shift cable or your high limit screw needs to come out about 1/8 turn. Either way, don't over shoot it because you're almost there. If 1/4 turn on the barrel adjuster doesn't do it, try 1/8 turn on the limit screw.
