I have a new bike and after taking the bike tire off and then putting it on I noticed the rear rotor was warp just a tiny tad like a scrrap.....scrap...scrap..............(then repeats). I wanted to know if I should take the bike in and have them look at it or not worry about it. I ask this because the front brakes are perfect but then again I never use them.
Flip your bike over put your ear right up to the rotor and spin the wheel. Do you hear anything touching? Is it ok to have the pads touch here and there?
2 day having this bike, just a newbie worring heheh.
TY all and have a wonderful evening!

That isn't normal. My two year old Trek came with Hayes mechanically actuated hydraulic brakes - great brakes btw and fairly inexpensive now if you can find them.

If your disc is warped it is likely due to uneven torque on the six screws holding it on. They really need to be put on with a torque wrench and tightened down in a star pattern like a car wheel would be. It may be damaged beyond repair and should at least be removed and checked for trueness/flatness without being under mounting pressure.

Anyway, what I found with mine was that the frame mounted housing was attached in such a way that the bottom of the rear disc was lightly scraping the bottom of the housing and that the disc wasn't centered very well between the housing cutout. This had caused uneven wear on the pads.

What I did was take the wheel off again, removed the pads, pressed the rotors back in the housing with a 10mm closed end wrench, put new pads in, remounted the wheel while trying to get it centered as much as possible between the housing cutout(do this by slightly turning the quick release skewer a fraction of a turn at a time). Once I did that, I loosened the housing mounting screws and with precision shims placed on either side of the disc between the housing cutout adjusted the housing location until both sides of the housing were even on either side of the disc. Also, I moved the housing slightly forward so that the bottom of the disc would no longer rub against the bottom of the housing.

The final step was to adjust the pistons for evenness against the disc. I simply put .015" shims between the disc and pad on each side. Then I simply pumped the lever until the pads were even. Job done.

If you've only had it 2 days, take the darned thing back. I didn't and learned the above. But the upside is that I can do it now in under 10 minutes tops.

All I can say is thank God for hydraulic disc brakes. Easy and fast. God, I look at the V-Brakes on one of my other bikes and want to hurl.

Aaah crap...there going to take forever F-ing with the brakes now and probably try to lay blame on me or something. If you think I should take it back in, how long should I expect it back (very small LBS)? Just an guess on how long it should take.
Another thing I notice is the some gear combo suck and are not smooth, also the back tire is woobly...I think its just the tire...the rim seems fine.
TY a ton for your help BTW!

Well, if you cross chain - large chainwheel/large cog or small chainwheel/small cog it won't be smooth, it isn't recommended, and will wear your drivetrain components out darned fast.

Sounds like they didn't do a very thorough checkout of the bike in the first place. How long it takes depends on them. Sounds like about 30 minutes or so of work for someone like me. They probably would take half that. From the sound of it I would say a lot of people are probably standing in line for them to do their job right though.

Over the years I've dealt with so many sorry LBSes all over the country in every region I just swore the bastards off entirely ages ago and do it all myself. It saves me time and money and I don't have to deal with a pack of little snots with an attitude problem.

I'm with you man, I want to do this stuff myself.
That book sounds awesome btw! You think theres a total begginer book out there I could learn some stuff from I could pick up from barnes and noble? I'm totally new to this stuff but I'm willing to learn the more and more you scare me about LBS heheh.
TY!

About the cross chain, I totally understand what your saying. I just thought it was weird cause it was the front middle sprocket....but I think your right.

I just read a thread here https://forums13.consumerreview.com/c...52.SGcTapPicmB^2@.ef3fb1e/0
This is probably what I did lol....I hope anyhow.
I took both wheels off lastnight and put them back on with the bike on its back. I might not have seated the tire with even presure then.
Whatcha think?
TY in advance!
Sorry for being a newbie pain in the arse hehe

Actually, Barnetts Manual takes you from being a total newbie to being able to tackle anything as long as you have the right tools for the job. They even recommend the best tools out there to do the job and pull no punches in doing so.

You can do a lot of maintenance on your bike without specialized tools. There are some areas where they are indispensable. I wouldn't go out and spend $600 on a bicycle toolset either. Most of the tools are for bikes you don't own.

Get specifics like cone wrenches, bottom bracket tools, free wheel tools, and crank pullers for your specific brand/type/size of bike components. It should be a while before you will need these.

Generic tools are 4th hand tools, 3rd hand tools, cassette tools, and cable cutters. You won't need these very often and when you do, you will. It will be a while before you need these.

A basic set of 3/8 inch drive hex head metric sockets, 3/8 inch drive 6 point metric sockets, a 3/8 inch drive ratchet, and a 3/8 inch drive torque wrench will get you pretty far. Don't forget a pair of small flat head and phillips screwdrivers either. You should get these now if you don't have them already. Everything but the torque wrench you can find at Walmart for $20 or so if money is an issue and you don't mind "Made in Taiwan" stuff. Craftsmen stuff from Sears will set you back more, but less than a hundred if you shop smart. SnapOn tools will set you back several hundred dollars just for the above.

Torque specs for bikes are in inch pounds so try to stick with a wrench that handles up to 600 inch pounds - unless you want to always be multiplying foot pounds by 12 to get your value. Park has a couple of torque wrenches - a 3/8 inch drive and 1/4 inch drive that work fine. Nothing fancy, but they are around $30 each or so. Also, they have 3 crowsfoot wrenches that work with the 3/8 drive torque wrench for headsets, pedals, and cranks that you should get to do the job right. Most of the problems you read about from clicking bottom brackets and such are from shade tree mechanics who don't use the proper tools.

Not every maintenance procedure needs to be done at the same time. Buy the stuff as you need it.

The first thing I would get is a good chain cleaner and some lube. I use the Park chain cleaner every couple of weeks or less on mine. Keeping your chain lubed and clean is the most important thing to do on your new bike to keep your drivetrain healthy.

Hope this helps.

Your link doesn't work, at least I got an error message saying it couldn't process the end of the url string you posted.

Hey, thanks a ton for all your wisdom and help man, thats awesome! I will be hunting a chain cleaner down asap....and lube.
I have a park tool-set for my pack that has like 90% of the things on my bike for road side stuff and maybe small fixes. I plan on doing what you said though, buy the tools as I need them and build up a small collection just for my bike.

The link works but you have to copy and paste it, make sure you copy all the way to the O. I don't know why that was left out of the link 8(
TY!