I picked up a used threaded King headset and am now getting ready to install it.

the site says to:

"Remove snap ring and seal:
Take a pointed instrument, such as a penknife, insert it at the split in the snap ring, and lift the pointed end out. Once the pointed end is free, the remainder of the ring can be removed easily. Lift out the inner seal. At this point the bearing will be exposed.

Clean and re-grease the bearings and replace the seal and snap ring:
With a small brush (e.g., a tooth brush) clean the bearing while rinsing with solvent. If the bearing has been neglected and is frozen, let it soak for a few minutes. Then, rotate the inner race back and forth to work it free. Rinse in solvent and blow dry with an air hose to remove any excess solvent. Test the bearing for smoothness. If the bearing was frozen for too long it may have become damaged or may be too rough and need replacing. However, if the bearing has lost only some of its silky smoothness, it may not be evident at the handlebar once re-greased and reassembled. If bearing replacement is necessary return cup(s) to us to have a new bearing(s) installed.

Re-grease the bearings using Bullshot or any other waterproof grease. Carefully wipe off the inner seal and reinstall. Finally, insert the pointed end of the snap ring into the snap ring groove, working it around the bearing until the other end seats and a small gap is noticed. Inspect the rest of the parts for any wear. At this time, you are ready to reassemble the headset and adjust."

Ive got the ring and seal out of both cups. It looks fairly clean in there .....it isnt dry.....its wet....but no visible grease other than a really light wet coating. It needs to be flushed as stated and done up again.

Long story short here it says use BULLSHOT...which good luck finding that......or use other waterproof grease. I have a tube of phil here and i am going to use that.

My question is how do i pack them. DO i force the grease in using the palm of my hand and rake the cup across until it is full or will that be too much grease in the cup? I know i want to "pack" the bearing and not just leave a little on the top and seal it back up. It has to coat the bearing surface or it is worthless. Is there such a thing as too much grease or should i just pack it full and seal it back up.

Looking for an answer from someone who has experience with King Cups.

Thanks

pack it like you said. the snap ring holds the seal. for seals without a snap ring or retainer over packing will cause the seal to pop out

so just clean it..... jam it full....seal it and call it good?

Depending on the age or mileage on the headset you could probably just buy replacement bearings pretty cheap.

+1. Just force the grease in with your fingers, rotate bearings, put in more grease untill it holds no more and you're done. Any bike grease will work fine. I've been using marine grease in mine for the last 15yrs on my CK headset and bearings are original and perfect condition.

Not for a CK. The bearings are spun into the headset cup and can't be removed or replaced. It's a good thing they are durable.

Seriously? I have a CK headset in my bike friday pocket rocket - also a threaded headset. I haven't touched it in 5 years. No play and never adjusted. It gets maybe 10 uses a year ( 200 miles) and stays in the suitcase the rest of the year. How often should I be performing this maintenance?
Jeff

Actually, Chris King presses their bearings into the cups. And, in the event that your bearings go bad before you totally wreck your cups, they are able to replace them for a minimal fee.

Perform maintenance whenever your headset doesn't feel smooth. Simple as that.

OK, my point was THEY can replace them, not the owner. Attempting to remove the bearings without the proper tools will distort and damage the cups. A CK headset isn't like a Cane Creek, FSA, etc. where the bearing cartridges can be popped out with your fingers and you buy and install new ones the same way.

Does it even Need Re lubing ? bottom may get sufficient water and grit
blown at it, If, riding in the wet for many years, without mudguards.

or perhaps driving the car , with the bike, on the roof rack ..
.. top is so well shielded I doubt it ever will.

CK will ship you replacement seals , if you bugger one up removing it..

well i got them regreased....which was simple. I had the cups pressed today and they are now in my frame. The stack height is just a bit taller than the old steel one i had on there. Now the 2nut wont allow the top nut to thread on more than 1-1/2 turns. In my book that isnt far enough. Ill likely ruin the fork threads if i ride it like this (LBS agrees).

Now i need to buy a GripNut top nut CK setup to replace my 2Nut which allows for the lower stack height. THats all fine considering id rather have it done right. The problem you ask? THe GripNut top nut setup purchased directly from CK costs a whopping $57! Crazy! That is just for a new top nut. THe cups on the models are the same so they are interchangable. Looks like i get to drop another $57+ shipping just to get this nut....

seems like an insane price but what is a guy to do?

Granted:
1. my old HS was garbage and in need of replacement
2. this used CK 2nut headset was purchased complete for $7

i guess if i factor in that i only paid $7 for it.....the cost of the adapter isnt so bad. THe shop cost of pressing and facing was a great deal as well. I got it faced and pressed OTD for $30 and i would likely have had to spend that regardless of the HS i ended up installing so that wasnt a waste.

As you can see...im trying to justify the cost and pull the trigger

Considering the CK headset is already yours and already installed, you have little choice but to pay for the needed part.

yup...you're right. Just an unexpected expense......

now the question. The cups are black.......my bike is black with red lettering......

so ....do i get a black nut setup or a red one. Life is complicated indeed.....

Black is boring. The red probably won't match the lettering. Go with gold. :-)

here we go......it will be spring before i can decide

Depending on where you live, that may be soon enough!

i actually just looked at my 2nut setup. My top nut threads on 2 full turns. With the top nut off i have 3 - almost 4 exposed threads. Is this too little or should i run the 2nut? I dont want to wreck my fork so i think i should be probably looking at the gripnut conversion regardless but i thought i would ask. How far should the top nut thread on to be safe?

nevermind....i found my answer. CK says at least 5 full exposed threads for the gripnut. Dang close but not close enough......