Using a chain tool properly
 

Hi all,

I bought a new KMC chain to replace the same model on my bike. I need to remove 6 links to match the length of the old one. I have a good chain tool but I cannot get the pin on the 6th link to budge on the new chain. I've tried both sides of the same pin but it just will not move. I'm afraid of damaging the new chain if I really put some gorilla strength to the chain tool. Is there some trick to this I've missed with all my Googling?

There are two slots in most chain tool. Are you sure you are using the right slot? One slot is for straightening kinked chain links, and the other is for removing pins and breaking links. On most tools, the lower slot is where chains are broken.

You could take it to a bike shop where they may have a heavier duty tool. It will come out with enough force. Most chain tools have replacable pins if you break the pin. Some of those pins can be a bit stubborn. Be sure to use the correct quick removal link, which usually comes with a KMC chain.

It takes quite a bit of force to push the pin out. Try it on the extra length of chain or the old chain to see how it feels before doing the pin that cuts the new one to the length you need. As mentioned above, the chain goes into the tool in the farthest possible position from the pusher.

Thanks for these tips. I am using the slot farthest from the push-pin, so it's crossing over the first slot then meeting the chain/pin at the second slot. I'll practice on one of the pins that will be discarded. Thanks again!

some chains are just tough to break even with the park ct3. shimano chains are a bit tougher. sram is pretty easy.

I finally got it free. I used a pair of pliers for leverage with the little handle of the chain tool. I turned as hard as I could on the test link thinking I was going to break something (hopefully not my fingers!). A small "Pop" and the pin started moving much easier. I could remove the pliers and turn it by hand. I practiced on a couple links to make sure I didn't totally remove the pin. In the end, I have my new chain on my bike! But, I'm using the KMC master link and I can't get each end of the link to lock in. The instructions say to use a master link tool which I cannot afford at this time. I might try needle-nose pliers.

You just have to get the master link barely connected, then it'll snap in place one you put a little tension on the chain (ride the bike down the street).

put the master link in the top run, hold wheel and fist bump cranks forward

For my KMC X10 SL, the masterlink was assembled with my fingers, and removable with my fingers. As I recall, once you place the two masterlink halves together and insert both pins into the side plates, a light tug set the link - I admit it seemed a bit "too easy", thinking it could disengage itself, but it works flawless. BTW - after riding SRAM chains for 10+ years, I recently switched to KMC and don't plan on going back to SRAM.

A couple of drops of oil on the chain tool threads as well as the master link will help both function more easily.

The "pop" you heard was the flaired end of the pin shearing off as you pushed out the pin. On modern narrow chains the pins are riveted at the ends to increase their strength and resistance to side loads. Once the pin is pushed out even half way, that flair is gone and the connection is much weaker if the pin is reused. That's why you never partially remove and reuse the same pin on any modern chain. Shimano sells specific replacement pins and KMC, SRAM, and Wippermann all use a master link.

That non-reusable pin thing is kind of disconcerting. I never use the master link.