Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Using a chain tool properly

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Using a chain tool properly

Old 11-05-11, 11:49 AM
  #1  
trobinson017
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 148
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Using a chain tool properly

Hi all,

I bought a new KMC chain to replace the same model on my bike. I need to remove 6 links to match the length of the old one. I have a good chain tool but I cannot get the pin on the 6th link to budge on the new chain. I've tried both sides of the same pin but it just will not move. I'm afraid of damaging the new chain if I really put some gorilla strength to the chain tool. Is there some trick to this I've missed with all my Googling?
trobinson017 is offline  
Old 11-05-11, 12:07 PM
  #2  
Jed19
Senior Member
 
Jed19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,224
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
There are two slots in most chain tool. Are you sure you are using the right slot? One slot is for straightening kinked chain links, and the other is for removing pins and breaking links. On most tools, the lower slot is where chains are broken.
Jed19 is offline  
Old 11-05-11, 12:24 PM
  #3  
Old Hammer Boy
Senior Member
 
Old Hammer Boy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,082

Bikes: Trek, Cannondale Tandem, Surly LHT

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
You could take it to a bike shop where they may have a heavier duty tool. It will come out with enough force. Most chain tools have replacable pins if you break the pin. Some of those pins can be a bit stubborn. Be sure to use the correct quick removal link, which usually comes with a KMC chain.
Old Hammer Boy is offline  
Old 11-05-11, 12:45 PM
  #4  
Looigi
Senior Member
 
Looigi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 8,951
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times in 7 Posts
It takes quite a bit of force to push the pin out. Try it on the extra length of chain or the old chain to see how it feels before doing the pin that cuts the new one to the length you need. As mentioned above, the chain goes into the tool in the farthest possible position from the pusher.
Looigi is offline  
Old 11-05-11, 02:32 PM
  #5  
trobinson017
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 148
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for these tips. I am using the slot farthest from the push-pin, so it's crossing over the first slot then meeting the chain/pin at the second slot. I'll practice on one of the pins that will be discarded. Thanks again!
trobinson017 is offline  
Old 11-05-11, 04:15 PM
  #6  
reptilezs
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: boston, ma
Posts: 2,896
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
some chains are just tough to break even with the park ct3. shimano chains are a bit tougher. sram is pretty easy.
reptilezs is offline  
Old 11-05-11, 04:28 PM
  #7  
trobinson017
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 148
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I finally got it free. I used a pair of pliers for leverage with the little handle of the chain tool. I turned as hard as I could on the test link thinking I was going to break something (hopefully not my fingers!). A small "Pop" and the pin started moving much easier. I could remove the pliers and turn it by hand. I practiced on a couple links to make sure I didn't totally remove the pin. In the end, I have my new chain on my bike! But, I'm using the KMC master link and I can't get each end of the link to lock in. The instructions say to use a master link tool which I cannot afford at this time. I might try needle-nose pliers.
trobinson017 is offline  
Old 11-05-11, 04:37 PM
  #8  
JiveTurkey
Low car diet
 
JiveTurkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Corvallis, OR, USA
Posts: 2,407

Bikes: 2006 Windsor Dover w/105, 2007 GT Avalanche w/XT, 1995 Trek 820 setup for touring, 201? Yeah single-speed folder, 199? Huffy tandem.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by trobinson017 View Post
But, I'm using the KMC master link and I can't get each end of the link to lock in. The instructions say to use a master link tool which I cannot afford at this time. I might try needle-nose pliers.
You just have to get the master link barely connected, then it'll snap in place one you put a little tension on the chain (ride the bike down the street).
JiveTurkey is offline  
Old 11-05-11, 04:42 PM
  #9  
reptilezs
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: boston, ma
Posts: 2,896
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
put the master link in the top run, hold wheel and fist bump cranks forward
reptilezs is offline  
Old 11-05-11, 07:21 PM
  #10  
MudPie
Senior Member
 
MudPie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,027
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 45 Post(s)
Liked 42 Times in 31 Posts
For my KMC X10 SL, the masterlink was assembled with my fingers, and removable with my fingers. As I recall, once you place the two masterlink halves together and insert both pins into the side plates, a light tug set the link - I admit it seemed a bit "too easy", thinking it could disengage itself, but it works flawless. BTW - after riding SRAM chains for 10+ years, I recently switched to KMC and don't plan on going back to SRAM.
MudPie is offline  
Old 11-05-11, 10:12 PM
  #11  
dsbrantjr
Senior Member
 
dsbrantjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,042

Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta

Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1329 Post(s)
Liked 813 Times in 569 Posts
A couple of drops of oil on the chain tool threads as well as the master link will help both function more easily.
dsbrantjr is offline  
Old 11-06-11, 07:26 AM
  #12  
HillRider
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 32,791

Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!

Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1643 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 497 Times in 375 Posts
The "pop" you heard was the flaired end of the pin shearing off as you pushed out the pin. On modern narrow chains the pins are riveted at the ends to increase their strength and resistance to side loads. Once the pin is pushed out even half way, that flair is gone and the connection is much weaker if the pin is reused. That's why you never partially remove and reuse the same pin on any modern chain. Shimano sells specific replacement pins and KMC, SRAM, and Wippermann all use a master link.
HillRider is offline  
Old 11-06-11, 09:49 AM
  #13  
highonpez
Senior Member
 
highonpez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Sheboygan, WI
Posts: 383

Bikes: 2010 Windsor The Hour, 1982 Fuji Supreme

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
That non-reusable pin thing is kind of disconcerting. I never use the master link.
highonpez is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
makeinu
Bicycle Mechanics
163
05-06-20 10:33 PM
kesher
Bicycle Mechanics
5
11-24-12 09:20 AM
paperback rider
Bicycle Mechanics
3
08-25-12 05:42 PM
rustang
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
86
12-06-11 02:58 PM
auchencrow
Bicycle Mechanics
21
09-03-10 01:36 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.