share you wheel building tools. what spoke wrenches do you like? do you use a nipple driver? nipple starters. for starting nipples i usually use a straight pick, sometimes use a screw holding screwdriver. for spoke wrenches i like the ones that grab 3 or 4 corners like a flare wrench. the regular park ones are ok too. i use the park tension meter because it is better than my tone deaf ears

a crank type nipple screwdriver, they have a proud, central pin, which, after counting turns,
to bring the nips up equally, no longer engages the slot, as spoke end is up


then its time to get out the spoke wrench, to continue tensioning..

An inexpensive Manura truing stand. A Wheelsmith tensiometer. I use Park wrenches and have one that wraps the nipple for high tension. I have found that a dishing tool is very handy. A nipple drive is handy as is the screwdriver that grips the nipple for instalation.

For starting nipples I use either a spoke and just thread the nipple on with that or I've been using the EVT Mulfinger Spoke Nipple Starter lately. Slick little tool.

Park TS-2, Park tension meter, a Park dishing gauge, DT swiss spokey and an old spoke with the threads cut off to start the nipple.

+1 on the Mulfinger. I have one at home, but not at the shop I work at. It's annoying to use an old spoke after that.

Interesting - never knew that existed. I've usually used a wooden skewer to the same effect.

One item I find really useful is a small screwdriver that fits into hollow axles (currently using a Torx T-15 or something). I clamp it firmly in the bench vise. After getting a couple spokes into the rim, I can just plunk the hub onto the screwdriver and then I've got both hands free.

After trying various spoke wrenches, I still default to the standard Park Tool loop models without the enhanced-grip jaw, because they don't have to be lifted off the nipple. But after lacing the spokes and running them up to the last visible thread with a BR nipple driver, I usually use a Wiha blade screwdriver on the nipple slots for the bulk of the build, then bust out the spoke wrench for finishing. Saves stress on my hands, for one thing

For starting slotted nipples in a double-walled rim, my Quick-Wedge 1836 screwdriver gets a lot of action:

I use an old fork and an even older spoke wrench and dial indicator.

I use a Park TS-8 w/magnetic dial indicator, a BR spoke nipple driver, a set of Park spoke wrenches, Park WAG-3 dishing tool these days, but I use to use a TS-2.2 stand, an old alloy Parks Pro dishing tool and a tension meter but I only build wheels for myself and close friends now, so I traded them for parts. These tools allow me to build extremely precise wheelsets for a minimum investment, but of course just using the frame and fork dropouts, a 6" scale, and some duct tape can get you pretty close with virtually no investment at all, as long as you take your time.









I'm guessing that you are referring to something like a Bicycle Research Spoke Nipple Driver like this. Worth every nickle and superior to old spokes and "pencil-type" nipple drivers due to better leverage. Indispensible if you are building dozens of wheelsets.

I did however know a Chinese gentleman who use square-cut stick matches with great success.