Front Derailleur rubbing + chain jumping on cassette
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Front Derailleur rubbing + chain jumping on cassette
I have recently purchased my first road bicycle, Cube Agree Pro. Compact with 10 speed cassette. Shimano Tiagra.
The first problem that has occurred is that the chain is rubbing on the front derailleur cage when at the extremeties. I have tried adjusting this but when its not rubbing on the lower side its rubbing on the high side. It is definately rubbing of the chain and not the cog. I have read a few posts about this and people have been saying to make sure the wheel is on correctly, I have had to replaced the tube and tire so will check that the wheel is seated correctly when I get home. I am wanting to ask if there is anything else I should be try?
The other problem that I have is that the chain is jumping on gears 2 + 3. I have not attempted in adjustments on the rear derailleur as I feel the problems may be connected.
Any advice on this would be much appreciated?
The first problem that has occurred is that the chain is rubbing on the front derailleur cage when at the extremeties. I have tried adjusting this but when its not rubbing on the lower side its rubbing on the high side. It is definately rubbing of the chain and not the cog. I have read a few posts about this and people have been saying to make sure the wheel is on correctly, I have had to replaced the tube and tire so will check that the wheel is seated correctly when I get home. I am wanting to ask if there is anything else I should be try?
The other problem that I have is that the chain is jumping on gears 2 + 3. I have not attempted in adjustments on the rear derailleur as I feel the problems may be connected.
Any advice on this would be much appreciated?
#2
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First of all the front and rear problems are unrelated, and the FD issue has nothing to do with the rear wheel. In fact there may be nothing wrong with the FD. The cage isn't wide enough to clear the chain from all angles in any one position. If it were shifting would suffer. Some Shimano systems have a trim feature built into the shifters where there are 2 clicks close together for the outer position. The far click position should give a good crisp upshift, and the outer plate should clear the chain coming from the outermost cassette sprocket. Then with the chain coming from a more inboard angle the small click moves the cage over enough so the inner plate clears.
It may not be possible, even with the trim feature to clear the chain coming from the innermost angle (big/big) but that's not a combination you're expected to use.
Now the RD, whose problems may be the result of the wheel position. Start by correctly positioning the wheel. Open the QR, hold the bike vertical on a flat surface and let gravity settle the dropouts, so the axle is fully to the top of each slot, then close the QR. This is home for the wheel, and you'll repeat it consistently if you always let gravity (very reliable) do the job for you. The brakes and derailleurs should be adjusted for the wheel thus positioned. If the shifting in midddle gears isn't spot on, correct it the cable adjusting barrel (trim adjuster).
If you can't get this perfect, bring it back to the shop. Since it's new they should dial it in for free, and will probably show you the key user adjustments if you ask.
It may not be possible, even with the trim feature to clear the chain coming from the innermost angle (big/big) but that's not a combination you're expected to use.
Now the RD, whose problems may be the result of the wheel position. Start by correctly positioning the wheel. Open the QR, hold the bike vertical on a flat surface and let gravity settle the dropouts, so the axle is fully to the top of each slot, then close the QR. This is home for the wheel, and you'll repeat it consistently if you always let gravity (very reliable) do the job for you. The brakes and derailleurs should be adjusted for the wheel thus positioned. If the shifting in midddle gears isn't spot on, correct it the cable adjusting barrel (trim adjuster).
If you can't get this perfect, bring it back to the shop. Since it's new they should dial it in for free, and will probably show you the key user adjustments if you ask.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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I can't figure out whether you are referring to FD chain rub "at the extremities" when you are shifting the RD (across the rear cogs) or the FD (across the chainrings..not the rear cogs). If your chainline is properly set up the shifting the RD shouldn't cause the FD to rub the chain. You might find problems getting the RD to shift onto some of the extreme combos (esp. big front wheel big rear cog), but that is another problem that has more to do with the capacity range of the RD. BTW, do you have a triple or double ring crank? Triples require a wider FD cage than do doubles. If you are using a double FD on a triple ring crank, you'd have the problem you describe.
FD set up is pretty straightforward. If you have the correct FD, and the cage isn't warped, and you've alligned it correctly with the chainwheels,
another possibility is your crank axle could be the wrong length.
Finally, is there a change your chain is slightly too wide? You might try switching to a thinner chain.
FD set up is pretty straightforward. If you have the correct FD, and the cage isn't warped, and you've alligned it correctly with the chainwheels,
another possibility is your crank axle could be the wrong length.
Finally, is there a change your chain is slightly too wide? You might try switching to a thinner chain.
#4
Mechanic/Tourist
If recently purchased from a local provider, take it back, explain the problem and have them show you proper usage of the gears.
The only positions where the front derailleur can be guaranteed to not rub are when both front and rear derailleurs are either all the way in against the inner limit screw or all the way out against the outer limit screws. In any other combination you may need to use the "trim" adjustment on the front derailleur, or in the case of large-large/small-small simply avoid those gears, as using them presents a host of problems and is unnecessary, and close duplicate gear ratios are available with other combinations.
As for the jumping problem you need to provide more details/nformaton:
In what combination of front and rear does the jumping occur?
Large (middle) or small chainring.
Which cog - need range of freewheel (ex 11-28) and teeth on cogs in question (ex 12 and 14)
The only positions where the front derailleur can be guaranteed to not rub are when both front and rear derailleurs are either all the way in against the inner limit screw or all the way out against the outer limit screws. In any other combination you may need to use the "trim" adjustment on the front derailleur, or in the case of large-large/small-small simply avoid those gears, as using them presents a host of problems and is unnecessary, and close duplicate gear ratios are available with other combinations.
As for the jumping problem you need to provide more details/nformaton:
In what combination of front and rear does the jumping occur?
Large (middle) or small chainring.
Which cog - need range of freewheel (ex 11-28) and teeth on cogs in question (ex 12 and 14)
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 01-04-12 at 10:25 AM.
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