Cable end caps?
#26
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,135
Likes: 108
From: Middle of the road, NJ
Over the past 30 years or so, I've used solder, super glue, heat shrink, and various tapes. The simplest, quickest is the alu cable end cap. Slide it on, crimp,crimp with the diagonal cutters, and done. No fuss no muss.
#27
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,148
Likes: 1
From: Spokane WA
Bikes: Seven Axiom Ti, Trek 620, Masi cylocross (steel). Masi Souleville 8spd, Fat Chance Mtn. (steel), Schwinn Triple Bar cruiser, Mazi Speciale Fix/single, Schwinn Typhoon
old spoke nipples work too I no people weho prefer to soldet the cable ends, crmp with any thing you want you'd really have to sqeeze hard to damage
#28
I don't crimp the metal ends at all. I use hot glue. The can be removed and put back on with the heat from a lighter or my little butane torch. I don't like the look of crimps that have been squashed with pliers.
#29
You gonna eat that?
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,917
Likes: 543
From: Fort Worth, Texas Church of Hopeful Uncertainty
Bikes: 1966 Raleigh DL-1 Tourist, 1973 Schwinn Varsity, 1983 Raleigh Marathon, 1994 Nishiki Sport XRS
I don't use metal caps anymore. I get 3/32 shrinkable plastic wire insulation tubing from Home Depot, slide an one inch piece to where I'm going to cut the cable, and use a lighter to shrink it on the cable. Then I cut it leaving about 3\4 of an inch of plastic insulation. This way if you ever have to remove the cable, it is not frayed and slides back through housing easily.
#30
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11,128
Likes: 39
Bikes: 1986 Alan Record Carbonio, 1985 Vitus Plus Carbone 7, 1984 Peugeot PSV, 1972 Line Seeker, 1986(est.) Medici Aerodynamic (Project), 1985(est.) Peugeot PY10FC
Don't bother with plastic caps they look cheap and never stay on........that's why you saw them only on department store bikes., they matched their also cheap zip-on type plastic cable clamps.....
Chombi
Chombi
#31
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,347
Likes: 5,254
From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
#32
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11,128
Likes: 39
Bikes: 1986 Alan Record Carbonio, 1985 Vitus Plus Carbone 7, 1984 Peugeot PSV, 1972 Line Seeker, 1986(est.) Medici Aerodynamic (Project), 1985(est.) Peugeot PY10FC
#33
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,347
Likes: 5,254
From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

The advantage is that when it crimps, it stays crimped. This is useful when making double-ended cables for e.g. obscure three speed shift cables and such.
#35
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11,128
Likes: 39
Bikes: 1986 Alan Record Carbonio, 1985 Vitus Plus Carbone 7, 1984 Peugeot PSV, 1972 Line Seeker, 1986(est.) Medici Aerodynamic (Project), 1985(est.) Peugeot PY10FC
Good point!, as I always considered the best crimps are ones when the only way to take the cap off the cable is to cut it off all together with the section of cable it is crimped on. That awesome crimp tool looks like it it could pretty much "fuse" the cap on the cable end 100% permanently with all the pressure it must produce on the crimp.
Chombi
Chombi
#36
#37
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 130
Likes: 1
From: London
Bikes: rock lobster 853, dawes kickback1993
What type of cable housing ferrule is best suited to an Avidd bb7 brake caliper. The caliper already has the rubber boot on it, but is it worth using a ferrule with a nose tube on it, like the ones that jagwire supply?
#38
My problem with the Park cable cutter (and yes I sometimes use it to lightly crimp ferrules on), is that I've had the crimps not be hard enough and the tips fall off. could be the cheap jagwire colored tips I use, but I think they're all more or less the same when it comes to aluminum crimps, no?
__________________
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),












