I don't have access to a glass bead / sand blaster so I was looking for some methods online. I've seen a method where I can use aircraft paint remover followed by sandpaper and some wet sanding, but I'm a little hesitant on using caustic chemicals or just washing that stuff into a drain.

Is there another method that can be used?

Also once the frame is stripped can I leave the bare aluminum or do I need to coat it with some sort of sealant?

You could try a drill and a circular wire brush attachment. I am not sure how it would work on aluminum since it's a pretty soft metal. I have used a citrus based stripper on aluminum. The paint softens and you use a plastic putty knife to scrape it off.

BL

ph: What are you trying to accomplish with this paint removal? IMO, if you do not get all of the paint out of the cracks and crevices of the frame it will look like crap unless you repaint the frame. Also, any abrasive removal means are going to damage the presumably smooth surface of the frame requiring it to be fine-sanded or buffed if you choose not to refinish it or possibly even if you do.

My frame has had a lot of chips and scuffs and honestly I like the look of bare metal on the bike. I don't mind putting the elbow grease into wet sanding it. This guys bike turned out exactly how I want it to look but he had a glass bead blaster.

https://gearinches.com/blog/photos/po...num-bike-frame

Any specific brand used?

I used a 3M Paint/Rust Stripper disc with great success.

"This guys bike turned out exactly how I want it to look but he had a glass bead blaster."
If that is the look you want I'd try real hard to find someone who could bead blast it. I doubt you could duplicate that finish with hand sanding. Just my $0.02.

Wonder if the OP realize that if the anodizing is not there no more the aluminum starts rusting?? Many people think that because something is made of aluminum it wont rust, yes it does, thats why aluminum is anodized.

It doesn't rust it oxidizes which looks similar but is something completely different than rust. Roger

Aluminum does indeed not rust. It does oxidize though. Rust=FeO or Fe2O3. Aluminum oxide=Al2O3.

You will need to coat it or anodize it to keep it from oxidizing.

Consider what paint is designed to do. Its designed to stick, and stay. Paint that came off easy, without serious mechanical means or chemicals means would be pretty crappy paint. Its kind of pick your poison: mechanical, chemical, or pay someone else to do it.

As far as corroding, you bet. Check aluminum windows (outdoors), and see how the uncoated ones turn white. That's one reason most aluminum bike components are anodized. Some people strip the anodizing off cranks and polish them up. They do look great, but realize the owner is now going to have to clean and polish them for ever.

Like I said, this disc is specifically designed to remove paint/primer and rust. I used it on my bike to remove paint to repair a crack in the seat post clamp. It did not scratch or groove the metal like sandpaper or something similar will.

Rust/oxide/corrosion, no matter what you call it it is bad. The disc I mentioned also removes corrosion. I discovered I had pitting in my handlebars that was 1/16" deep. It pulled enough of it out so that i could treat and paint it. A light coat of rust/oxide/corrosion will not hurt the metal, as long as it is not allowed to progress further. Just make sure to give the frame a once over before you have it painted so you don't have to re-strip and re-paint.

I forgot to mention that if you think the bike will sit for a while and you seriously want to coat/seal the metal, you need to get a hold of some Alodine. It is an aluminum sealant that goes on BEFORE primer/paint. Henkel is a company that sells to civilians and it's pretty cheap, $40 for a gallon (consider what it does).

For alu, make sure you use a self etching primer ( WM auto dept), I work on Alu boats, unless its self etching, paint will not stay on.