carbon seatpost + pipe cutter, have you tried it?
#1
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carbon seatpost + pipe cutter, have you tried it?
I think I used a hacksaw last time I cut a carbon fork tube but was wondering if a pipe cutter will work. Anybody have success with that combination?
#4
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Nah, it'll work fine!!! I think I just need to find my hacksaw. I know it somewhere. Its just that my pipecutter is right there out in my toolbox.
Yah, i'll look for that hacksaw and tape around where I need to cut
Yah, i'll look for that hacksaw and tape around where I need to cut
#5
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#9
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Just Don't inhale any fiber dust,its biologically a permanent irritant, like Asbestos.
Why do you need to cut it anyhow ?
does it bottom out on a waterbottle boss before it's short enough?
Seat post was the topic, disambiguating from fork steerer which has an overlength ..
Why do you need to cut it anyhow ?
does it bottom out on a waterbottle boss before it's short enough?
Seat post was the topic, disambiguating from fork steerer which has an overlength ..
Last edited by fietsbob; 01-20-12 at 11:36 AM.
#11
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Yes, it *may* bottom out. I have a pretty small frame. 49cm or so. And I stupidly won a carbon seatube from ebay.
#12
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#13
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Table saw...
Has a guide...cuts quick...throws stuff against the wall...scares the kids into behaving...
j/k
Has a guide...cuts quick...throws stuff against the wall...scares the kids into behaving...
j/k
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Disclaimer:
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5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
#15
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Never a pipe cutter on carbon fiber, but a hacksaw isn't the best either. I'm from the class that believes abrasive cut-off wheels is the best option.
Having cut hundreds of CF shafts (golf), abrasive cut-off is the answer. Hacksaws have a tendency to tear fiber strands from the inside, and consequently lead to failure. Steerer tubes are most likely laid up differently than golf shafts so may not present the same problems, but... why chance it?
If you have to use a hacksaw frame go with a diamond grit blade rather than a toothed blade. If you have to use a toothed blade, at least go with the finest you can find- like 48t, and use very little pressure. Let the saw do the work and don't force it. Inspect the inside of the tube after cutting.
Having cut hundreds of CF shafts (golf), abrasive cut-off is the answer. Hacksaws have a tendency to tear fiber strands from the inside, and consequently lead to failure. Steerer tubes are most likely laid up differently than golf shafts so may not present the same problems, but... why chance it?
If you have to use a hacksaw frame go with a diamond grit blade rather than a toothed blade. If you have to use a toothed blade, at least go with the finest you can find- like 48t, and use very little pressure. Let the saw do the work and don't force it. Inspect the inside of the tube after cutting.
#16
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Never a pipe cutter on carbon fiber, but a hacksaw isn't the best either. I'm from the class that believes abrasive cut-off wheels is the best option.
Having cut hundreds of CF shafts (golf), abrasive cut-off is the answer. Hacksaws have a tendency to tear fiber strands from the inside, and consequently lead to failure. Steerer tubes are most likely laid up differently than golf shafts so may not present the same problems, but... why chance it?
If you have to use a hacksaw frame go with a diamond grit blade rather than a toothed blade. If you have to use a toothed blade, at least go with the finest you can find- like 48t, and use very little pressure. Let the saw do the work and don't force it. Inspect the inside of the tube after cutting.
Having cut hundreds of CF shafts (golf), abrasive cut-off is the answer. Hacksaws have a tendency to tear fiber strands from the inside, and consequently lead to failure. Steerer tubes are most likely laid up differently than golf shafts so may not present the same problems, but... why chance it?
If you have to use a hacksaw frame go with a diamond grit blade rather than a toothed blade. If you have to use a toothed blade, at least go with the finest you can find- like 48t, and use very little pressure. Let the saw do the work and don't force it. Inspect the inside of the tube after cutting.
I would note that while a precise 90° cut is nice, it's not essential as the top of the steerer is not the pressure face for headset adjustment, the top of the stem or a top spacer is. You want to be close to a square cut but needn't agonize over it so a hose clamp cutting guide is adequate if a purpose-built cutting guide isn't available.





