SS Conversion Chainline
02-21-12 | 03:34 PM
#1
SS Conversion Chainline
This might be a very dumb question, but I'd rather be sure before I start my build so that I know I have the proper tools. I did some searching and couldn't find a definitive answer.
I'm build up a single speed using a road frame with a rear spacing of 120mm. I will be using Shimano Dura Ace Track hubs and a Dura Ace Track BB and Crankset. Since the spacing is the same as a track frame or will the chainline be straight? Logic tells me it will.
I'm build up a single speed using a road frame with a rear spacing of 120mm. I will be using Shimano Dura Ace Track hubs and a Dura Ace Track BB and Crankset. Since the spacing is the same as a track frame or will the chainline be straight? Logic tells me it will.
02-21-12 | 03:56 PM
#2
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Measure... once the hub is built up and the wheel in the frame,
you make the front chainring parallel to the center line of the bike itself.
through a combination of BB spindle length and crank design.
you make the front chainring parallel to the center line of the bike itself.
through a combination of BB spindle length and crank design.
02-21-12 | 05:22 PM
#3
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If you have the sprocket and hub already it's easy to predict where the chainline will needs to be set.
Spin the sprocket onto the hub up to the shoulder, but don't bother tightening it. Now measure from the right lock nut face, to the center of a tooth (parallel to the axle), subtract that from the axle locknut width, which should be either 110 or 120mm, and that's the center to sprocket distance, or chainline. Your crank chainline should be set as close to that as possible, or within 1-3mm to either side.
Spin the sprocket onto the hub up to the shoulder, but don't bother tightening it. Now measure from the right lock nut face, to the center of a tooth (parallel to the axle), subtract that from the axle locknut width, which should be either 110 or 120mm, and that's the center to sprocket distance, or chainline. Your crank chainline should be set as close to that as possible, or within 1-3mm to either side.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
02-21-12 | 08:26 PM
#5
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
If you're starting with a road double and using the inner chainring position it'll be very close.
Typical road double chainline is a few millimeters wider than typical track or road SS. Then the inner ring is about 3mm inboard form the chainline (middle between the 2 rings), so that will come very close to making up the difference. But then again that supposes that your road cranks have the correct road chainline to start.
Typical road double chainline is a few millimeters wider than typical track or road SS. Then the inner ring is about 3mm inboard form the chainline (middle between the 2 rings), so that will come very close to making up the difference. But then again that supposes that your road cranks have the correct road chainline to start.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
02-21-12 | 10:58 PM
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