Stubborn bottom bracket
03-09-12 | 05:07 AM
#1
Thread Starter
The bike plague
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 377
Likes: 2
From: Greek mountains
Bikes: 70's Legnano Road Bike, Late 70's Mercier Road Bike, Ideal Target Mountain Bike, Specialized crosstrail trekking bike and a unicycle
Stubborn bottom bracket
I have this bike with a Sealed cartridge bottom bracket and it's almost impossible to get it out. The truth is I'm not absolutely sure if it's regular threaded so I didn't pull with all my strength. Plus I don't have the bolt that locks the cap removing tool in place, so it's a bit loose.
Do you have any suggestions? Maybe leave some WD40 and try the next day? Do you think it will work?
EDIT: By the way, this bike has some grooves underneath the bottom bracket shell for the wires. That means that the front derailleur "opens" when the wire pulls downward (because the wire comes under the bracket shell and up to it). I knew until now that derailleur "opens" when you pull it from above if that makes any sense. Is that because it is an old type? Do you know the name to diferentiate those two types?
Sorry for my poor discription. If you didn't understand I can upload a photograph.
Do you have any suggestions? Maybe leave some WD40 and try the next day? Do you think it will work?
EDIT: By the way, this bike has some grooves underneath the bottom bracket shell for the wires. That means that the front derailleur "opens" when the wire pulls downward (because the wire comes under the bracket shell and up to it). I knew until now that derailleur "opens" when you pull it from above if that makes any sense. Is that because it is an old type? Do you know the name to diferentiate those two types?
Sorry for my poor discription. If you didn't understand I can upload a photograph.
Last edited by MightyLegnano; 03-09-12 at 05:18 AM.
03-09-12 | 05:27 AM
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,773
Likes: 105
From: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
For the BB, leverage, make sure your pulling the correct way for the side that's stuck, try a breaker bar on it if you have one, it should go eventually, if this doesn't work, think about taking it to a bike shop.
For the FD, there are 2 main types, top and bottom pull/swing, from you description, you have a bottom pull. If you look at the Shimano Tech Docs https://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/index.jsp at the FD's the instructions show how to set these up.
For the FD, there are 2 main types, top and bottom pull/swing, from you description, you have a bottom pull. If you look at the Shimano Tech Docs https://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/index.jsp at the FD's the instructions show how to set these up.
03-09-12 | 08:33 AM
#4
Bianchi Goddess
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
It would help to know what kind of bike you have and if the bottom bracket (BB) has any threading markings on it
63x24 would be Italian and regular right hand thread (righty tighty / lefty loosey)
1.37x24 is English, the nondrive cup is right hand thread but the drive side (AKA 'Fixed Cup') is left hand thread so you need to turn to the left to loosen.
If there is anything different marked on it post the numbers here and somehow will know the threading.
63x24 would be Italian and regular right hand thread (righty tighty / lefty loosey)
1.37x24 is English, the nondrive cup is right hand thread but the drive side (AKA 'Fixed Cup') is left hand thread so you need to turn to the left to loosen.
If there is anything different marked on it post the numbers here and somehow will know the threading.
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
03-09-12 | 08:41 AM
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
It would help to know what kind of bike you have and if the bottom bracket (BB) has any threading markings on it
36x24 would be Italian and regular right hand thread (righty tighty / lefty loosey)
1.37x24 is English, the nondrive cup is right hand thread but the drive side (AKA 'Fixed Cup') is left hand thread so you need to turn to the left to loosen.
If there is anything different marked on it post the numbers here and somehow will know the threading.
36x24 would be Italian and regular right hand thread (righty tighty / lefty loosey)
1.37x24 is English, the nondrive cup is right hand thread but the drive side (AKA 'Fixed Cup') is left hand thread so you need to turn to the left to loosen.
If there is anything different marked on it post the numbers here and somehow will know the threading.
03-09-12 | 11:51 AM
#7
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,979
Likes: 1,154
From: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
It would help to know what kind of bike you have and if the bottom bracket (BB) has any threading markings on it
36x24 would be Italian and regular right hand thread (righty tighty / lefty loosey)
1.37x24 is English, the nondrive cup is right hand thread but the drive side (AKA 'Fixed Cup') is left hand thread so you need to turn clockwise to loosen.
If there is anything different marked on it post the numbers here and somehow will know the threading.
36x24 would be Italian and regular right hand thread (righty tighty / lefty loosey)
1.37x24 is English, the nondrive cup is right hand thread but the drive side (AKA 'Fixed Cup') is left hand thread so you need to turn clockwise to loosen.
If there is anything different marked on it post the numbers here and somehow will know the threading.
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Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
03-09-12 | 01:56 PM
#8
Carpe Velo
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 2,519
Likes: 18
From: Fort Worth, Texas
Bikes: 2000 Bianchi Veloce, '88 Schwinn Prologue, '90 Bianchi Volpe,'94 Yokota Grizzly Peak, Yokota Enterprise, '16 Diamondback Haanjo, '91 Bianchi Boardwalk, Ellsworth cruiser
I replaced mine a few days ago. Left side came right out, but had a heck of a time getting the right (drive) side out. What eventually worked is:
-Zip tied the BB removal tool to the BB and shell, so it wouldn't yank off under pressure.
-Sprayed some penetrating oil (liquid wrench) onto the joint, so it would hopefully get into the threads. (Not sure if this helped or not)
-Still couldn't get enough leverage to break it loose, so hit the tool handle with a rubber mallet. This broke it loose.
If it still hadn't come loose, the next step would have been to attach a steel seatpost or other lever-like item to the removal tool with zip ties to get more leverage. I had to do that on the right crankarm when I was trying to get that off.
-Zip tied the BB removal tool to the BB and shell, so it wouldn't yank off under pressure.
-Sprayed some penetrating oil (liquid wrench) onto the joint, so it would hopefully get into the threads. (Not sure if this helped or not)
-Still couldn't get enough leverage to break it loose, so hit the tool handle with a rubber mallet. This broke it loose.
If it still hadn't come loose, the next step would have been to attach a steel seatpost or other lever-like item to the removal tool with zip ties to get more leverage. I had to do that on the right crankarm when I was trying to get that off.
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