handlebar help needed
#1
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handlebar help needed
i have a 1973 Raleigh Sprint (by serial number) - all original - with bent handlebar. i tried to fit a Sunlight North Road bar, but the center section swells to 1" diameter (rest of the bar is 7/8"). i spread the stem casting as far as i dare without cracking the part or the plating, but it was not enough to get the bar in.not wishing to start replacing more original parts unnecessarily.
Q: how much stretch will the stem take? or is there a full 7/8" bar of this style available?
thanks
Q: how much stretch will the stem take? or is there a full 7/8" bar of this style available?
thanks
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
What you are trying to do is like trying to fit a square peg in a round hole, the 7/8" is 22mm, this will never fit a 1 inch 25.4mm stem.
Would do two things, get a vernier caliper to verify the measurements, and then once confirmed search for 25.4mm handelbars and purchase the stye of this that you like.
Or you could look at replacing the stem with one which would fit your bars, Nitto make nice ones.
Would do two things, get a vernier caliper to verify the measurements, and then once confirmed search for 25.4mm handelbars and purchase the stye of this that you like.
Or you could look at replacing the stem with one which would fit your bars, Nitto make nice ones.
#3
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
However, to my knowledge All bars have a bulge or sleeve in the center, including, I'm almost certain the one you removed. This is necessary partly to increase strength, but mainly because to provide added clearance to slip the bar through until you got to the clamping area.
For certain, your stem clamp diameter is larger than 7/8", though it's possible that you bought a replacement with the wrong (larger) clamp diameter than the original. Common clamp diameters are 1" (25.4mm) 26mm, 1-1/4" (31.8mm).
Measure the clamp diameter of your original bar, compare that to the replacement, and if they're different, buy a new bar that matches your old one.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
Thrifty Bill

Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Learning on bikes can be a lot of fun. I would go out tomorrow and buy a $10 digital caliper (they are on sale at Harbor Freight). Accurately measuring part sizes is very important on vintage bikes. And without an accurate measurement, you will not be able to get the right parts (OK, you could get lucky a few times).
#7
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: SoCal
Bikes: 1983 Trek 620, 2010 Roubaix
Learning on bikes can be a lot of fun. I would go out tomorrow and buy a $10 digital caliper (they are on sale at Harbor Freight). Accurately measuring part sizes is very important on vintage bikes. And without an accurate measurement, you will not be able to get the right parts (OK, you could get lucky a few times).
Some will give you decimal inches, fractional inches and decimal metric -- very handy.
I bought one of these a couple years ago and LOVE them; just as accurate as my high-dollar steel dial calipers but MUCH more flexible since they give inches, fractions AND metric. The batteries last for eons (the achillies heel of many inexpensive calipers) and I can't say enough good about them.
https://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/C025013.htm
I bought them thinking they would be pretty cheesy and accurate enough for woodworking but not much else. I've been pleasantly surprised at how well they work. I found that I like the light weight, and since they are light and cheap they are always out on the bench so they get used often.
My $0.02. We are fortunate to have many options for inexpensive calipers; the important thing is to pick one and use it.
-Tom in SoCal
#8
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From: England, currently dividing my time between university in Guildford and home just outside Reading
Bikes: Too many to list here!
I suspect the clamp area is 15/16" not 1", apparently some older Raleighs used them. Either you need a new stem (easy to find), or compatible bars (easy for me because I have a bike shop full of old Raleigh parts down the road from me, may not be so easy for you)
#9
Thread Starter
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yes. equipped with the suggested dial caliper, i measured the original bar at 22.2 mm and the center of the bar at 23.8 mm. the center measured differently around because the stem clamp had forced it out of round.
but the exercise did reinforce that my new Sunlite North Road bars are not going into the original stem.
anybody have a good lead on Raleigh replacement bars in the US?
thanks
but the exercise did reinforce that my new Sunlite North Road bars are not going into the original stem.
anybody have a good lead on Raleigh replacement bars in the US?
thanks
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,921
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From: England, currently dividing my time between university in Guildford and home just outside Reading
Bikes: Too many to list here!
eBay is probably your best bet, if it weren't for my LBS having stuff like that, that's what I'd have to do. As I recall, Sheldon just suggests replacing the stem if you need to replace the bars, but if you're trying to keep it original, you'll probably have to go with drop bars, as North Roads in 15/16" clamp are likely to be sufficiently rare as to be unobtainable, even if you had them shipped from the UK.
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